Hello All, We have had our 3.4 Mk2 for a few months and I am noticing a rattle up the front - louder with the oil filler open, can isolate to the front with a stethoscope. The maintenance records tell me that the upper chain was tensioned fairly recently (will check this!) and the mechanic noted that the lower chain was noisy. Also checked with a timing light and there is some movement around the proper idle setting - several degrees about 8 degrees. Our other cars are rock steady. So I’m contemplating the bottom chain and need to know (1) best brand of chain with a master link feature and (2) what’s the conventional wisdom on best tensioner these days - have read some sad stories? I did call one supplier and was advised a bottom chain costs AUD$21.82 - not enough for a good one, I suspect. Regards, Paul
I will keep a eye on your post with interest , I sent e-mail’s to 2 Jaguar parts suppliers asking the name of there chain manufactures , nothing back , one cheap one I see is made in India, so god only knows what that’s made from , like most of the parts on the new jags 
fight fight fight lol
Only a thought , maybe worth running some engine flush in the engine , the hydraulic tensioner can stick !
Or turn the radio up 
The original manufacturer was Renold in Manchester, and they have a subsidiary Renold Jeffrey in Morristown Tennessee.
Some years ago when I needed a timing chain for my Mark V and my favorite Jag parts vendors had none, I measured the link size and bought a length of stock chain with master link from McMaster-Carr and it turned out to be made by Renold.
Hi Rob, thanks for that - as it happens I found a vendor in Sydney today. Still stripping down and will get chains and a tensioner next week. Plus whatever else I find in the meantime! Paul
What ever you do when you take the tensioner off make sure you clean the filter behind it, when you remove the tensioner you will see what looks like a brass ring in the block , this is actually a cone filter and MUST be removed and cleaned (a lot of so called mechanic do not know this) if you do not do this you will starve the tensioner of oil and it will not function.
remember guys this is a racing engine
Gary
Thanks for the note - I pulled the tensioner this afternoon. The “so called mechanic” forgot to release the tensioner - locked in the fitting position. Will put up some photos. Couldn’t believe someone could be so incompetent! Heavy wear on the “shoe cylinder” as it had been floating in and out with oil pressure rather than locking per the helical ratchet. Timing cover came away cleanly once the sump was dropped away and the old style metal head gasket should assist refitting next week. Paul
Wow! I presume you will replace the entire mechanism so you are not operating with parts that were just slapping around for many miles.
Gerard
Yes. Long order for new parts - both chains, guides, tensioner etc etc. Gauze filter clear. Have only had the car for 1000 miles and have no idea how long it has been suffering this - more than 1/2" movement depending on oil pressure! I released the tensioner and it works properly. Paul
Hello All. So my parts are now with me. Attached is a picture of the timing chain tensioner. It came from my local Jaguar/Rover dealer and is hence genuine per notations on the box. Note that is made in France (not India or China) - expect that if the French are good enough to manufacture our next generation submarines I should suppose they can make a servicable tensioner for our Mk2. Note also that the rubber foot returns well around both edges unlike the Indian Rolon. My question is - how does it release? There is no Allen key hole. Regards, Paul
All good - worked it out once I got home.
I recently got told another vehicle shared timing chains with a Jag XK, but was much cheaper, 99% sure it was a Mazda B1200, dont know if true, possible, or even worthwhile!