Maybe you have the wrong car ?
No, the 1st “E” I bought in 1967 was the "right " car, and the present “E” I purchased in 2000 and restored is also the "right"car.
I used to rebuild cylinders, but they all leaked. Then I sent them out for the SS sleeving, all good. That was years ago and I think now, buying a new one may be more cost effective. White Post did mine
Were I still in the business of fixing cars, I would never use anything, but a rebuilt one from a reputable rebuild or, or a new one.
I only would rebuild my own brake cylinders, and that’s only in very limited circumstances. For about the last 20 years, I’ve sent away to a professional rebuilder, and never regretted it for one second.
I no longer suffer from this delusion, for lack of a better word, that I must fix everything myself, nor do I have to.
As I suspected… I must be delusional because I still like to fix everything myself. Here’s a photo of me about to machine my master cylinder for a ss sleeve.
Whilst I like the idea of doing it myself and have the equipment ….nah get the pros to do it …it’s braking system ….I want to make sure I have the very best chance of not killing myself
Bill, if I had my own lathe, I could most certainly do that for my own cylinders: would I ever do that for a customers?
OK, got the new master cylinder and installed it. Put fluid in the reservoirs, pumped the brake pedal and it pumped up. Got ready to get my wife for brake bleed pedal duty, when I noticed a puddle under the back of the car. Right rear outboard cylinder is leaking. It appears that with some finagling I can remove the cylinder without dropping the suspension.
Further to the leaking cylinder, I just reviewed my receipts and they were all sleeved by White Post in 2004, and the right rear outboard was returned to WP due to leaking in 2015 and again in 2016. I think I just answered my question about removal of the cylinder without dropping the rear suspension, as I am sure I would remember if I had dropped the suspension just to remove a brake cylinder. However, that raises the question, why has the same cylinder failed 3 times, albeit over almost 20 years?
Had same problem with my 71 Ser 2. Brake fluid disappearing, nothing on the floor or inside under the brake pedal. Ended up removing the vacuum brake assist and the master cylinder to overhaul both. When I removed the vacuum assist, it had a quart of brake fluid inside.
Quart of brake fluid in vacuum tank
I had my servo sleeved about 4 years ago and last year I had fluid drop in the front circuit reservoir and rise in the rear circuit reservoir.
Out cam the servo again as the piston seal that isolates the front circuit from the rear was not doing its job. The seal actually looked fine when I inspected it. ie no nicks or visible defects
I think the rubber quality these days is not so good.
Clarification on my posts, I am not suggesting that the loss of fluid in both reservoirs and the leak in the rear brake cylinder are related, I believe the two are entirely unrelated.
Maybe Whitepost will answer that for you. I assume you have determined it is indeed the caliper seal and not a leak at the fitting.
I would put my money on the fitting if indeed the caliper was changed without removing the IRS assembly. Cant imagine what a struggle that could be, if course I never tried it. My new calipers went on with it out and Fossway remote bleeders installed same time.
It is not leaking from the brake line fitting nor from the bleed nipple.
Not the caliper, removing the just the cylinder. Can be done in situ, outboard cylinder only, by removing the bottom of the front road spring to allow the spring to move enough to access one of the top mounting bolts.
In removing the cylinder I found I could not remove the pad from the caliper because it was stuck to the piston. Ended up removing the cylinder with the pad still attached to the piston. Has anyone else encountered this problem?
When I got my car the rear pads were stuck to where I could not slide them out of the caliper. I needed to remove all 4 pistons for rebuild anyway so it was not much of an inconvenience. I was able to remove all 4 pistons without dropping the IRS but I had to grind down a socket to fit between the pumpkin and inboard piston bolts. When I put it back together I filed down the edges of the new pads a little so that they would easily slide in and out.
68 E-type FHC
My mistake thought you were still on the brake fluid gone mystery, did i miss how that was resolved? Guess I should go back to the beginning again, its been quite a thread with so many interesting and informational posts. My new system should be complete next winter, sure hope everything works!!!