Just looking at my brake reservoir today, I’m thinking the fluid looks low and almost too brown in colour. It’s been a few years but not a lot of miles since the brakes were last done . Am I worried about nothing or is it time to replace this fluid.?
Absolutely time to replace it. Suck it out with a turkey blaster, and refill reservoir. Then bleed each wheel down until the fluid is clear and clean.
Yes! You should bleed brakes every 2 years. Moisture is the enemy, not miles.
I use a Motive Power Bleeder, and 2 quarts of Dot 4 synthetic fluid each time. A bit overkill, but worth it.
Also a good idea to push back brake pads with bleeder open, helps get rid of the heated up fluid/crude in the caliper.
I’d also double check that those hoses from reservoir to master cylinder haven’t gone soft. I’m just eyeballing it here, but that looks like some cheap inappropriate hose that could be decaying from the inside, turning your fluid black. If you see black bits in bottom of reservoir then you know those hoses are shit.
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Yes, regular fuel hose is not compatible with brake fluid and will turn the fluid in the reservoir dark.
Thanks John for pointing the hose issue out. Brake fluid, and new hoses it is then.
Two things to check for are moisture in the fluid and traces of copper metal in it. The former can be checked by one of those laser gizmos that look like a fountain pen. If it shows less than 1% moisture (water) in it, then it’s still good to go, IIRC. The copper contamination can be checked by means of those “dip strips”. Just dip one end of them in the fluid and compare vs. the color chart on the packaging. Superblue’s passed both tests with flying colors a couple of years ago. Though I’m puzzled now why (despite the fluid level being O.K., too) sometimes when I put my foot on the brake pedal I get a red light on the dash, just for a brief microsecond, to the left of the check engine light. She likes to do that esp. when I first start her up, but also if I have to hit the pedal hard while driving. 
I’ve also heard you can use that turkey baster method, but repeat like 3x after driving each time to make sure you got all of it replaced. Kinda expensive to go that route, though. 
I put a Mitsubishi reservoir (per Kirkby) on mine, which will keep moisture laden air out of the system. I got the brake hose from Brembo.
The brake fluid stays nice and clear. (and I do flush- just ask the wife.)
If the fluid level in the reservoir is low, and there are no apparent leaks, your pads are worn.
I really like the look of the Mitsubishi reservoir and hose connection. I can see a mod coming up for my car. I’m a little annoyed at myself for ignoring this issue even though it’s been staring me in the face all this time.
Mind you I haven’t done a lot with the car until I started getting back into it during this COVID business last summer.
Thanks for the great idea. Did you change the mounting bracket and modify the wire connectors at some point?
I was almost thinking the same thing, also like Greg’s idea of flushing the crud out near the lines where the pad is worn.
Seems like a great idea Greg, if anything this post has taught me I have my work cut out for me and I hate handling break fluid. What make and type of fluid are you using?
I just buy Prestone Dot4 synthetic in yellow bottle.
The nice thing about the power bleeder, i can do it all by myself. No brake pedal action. I just keep it pumped at 15 psi.
Rear inboard brakes are a pain. Wish i had a lift!
Agreed, as I suggested in an earlier post as I get older I’m finding it more difficult to get in under the back end of the car. I’ve still got to change out the rear springs and shocks while I’m under there.
My solution may have to be jack it up much higher, and get a creepy crawly so I can roll underneath. Maybe electric assist? 
Kirkby gets all the credit for the idea. There is loads of info in the archives if you search for “Mitsubishi reservoir.” The mounting bracket will test your creativity. I made one from a 4x4 electrical work box. Wiring is simply two connectors- easy.
I still have my original set up. Just had to change the hoses to the MC, and buy a new cap as the low brake fluid sender was faulty. (This is one of the issues with original setup, I think Kirby says it’s just a cork float?)
Another issue, it’s not air tight, so moisture can get in. Plus I “think” this means fluid can get out. I sometimes have a bit of brake fluid “sweating or spill?” around base of reservoir. But it’s minimal, requires a top off every 6 months of maybe 1 ounce?
So yes, the Mitsibishi version that Kirby/Dave recommend is superior, but a lot of work. The original reservoir will ‘keep you going’ if you maintain. But this also is why I make sure to change brake fluid every 2 years no matter what.
I replaced the reservoir hoses with ones I ordered from BUGHAUS… they are for a Volkswagen