No need, mine was much uglier than yours but it worked perfectly 
pauls
Well instead of buying the brake switch kit you guys have inspired me to make my own bracket and find a suitable switch. If I had a milling machine it would be made of billet aluminum !
Glenn
70 E
What I used (though it sounds like NAPA may have something more local):
That napa switch looks good, should do the job and there is enough adjustment.
Only problem is it is for a BMW! My car may reject this transplant.
Glenn
Itās easy enough to do if you own a hacksaw, vice, drill motor, file and some bits. And you get the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Wrinkle paint is optional.
We all have our bad habits, John, but I donāt see what vice has to do with making a bracket.
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Iām assuming you guys are wiring these mechanical switches in parallel with
the original, right? I suppose one could simply remove the wires from the
original switch and extend them to the new, but then youād lose the look of
the original setup.
Thatās what I did. In addition to an original look it is a belt & suspenders thing - though I expect the pressure switch will fail long before a mechanical switch will.
But mainly it was a matter of ease of installation as I was able to pick up the green/purple lead quite close by the location of the new switch.
That was my plan as per Jerryās and Georgeās posts above.
More work to swap out the wires, Les, when you can leave it all in situ and gang into the harness by the left A-post and run a feed from the fuse block. Also provides redundancy, which can only be a good thing when it comes to brake lights.
I briefly thought about powering the new switch from a different fuse to provide added redundency. That would mean having the stock switch powered by fuse #6 and the mechanical switch powered by another fuse that is activated when the car is running.
What would be the cons, if any, of doing that?
John,
Seems more likely that a short would occur in the lights themselves or the wiring to them, and your solution would then blow out both fuses, no? Overboard, I think.
Jerry
My concern would be the fuse #6 blowing and going unnoticed for a bit. I think that is more likely than a tail light short blowing the fuse. Seems like half the car is powered off of #6.
Sounds like belt and suspenders and nail through pants into belly button, no?
Jerry
Maybe, but so is a parallel switch. Itās a harmless no cost thing to do. I asked because I was curious about any potential harm to the rest of the electrical system.
Speaking of belt and suspenders, I picked up one of these while I was at the alternator shop last week. 
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I think Lynn Gardner has something like that, brings it along on Oil Leaksā¦
āGood for engines up to 4Lā ?
Jerry
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I made my own bracket too, just bent metal with two holes drilled in it.
If F6 blows youād know about it quite quickly, so many weird problems occur when F7 is in trouble.
of course I meant to say when F6 is in troubleā¦
Les, I left my original wires in place and spliced in a new power feed to the second switch from that same circuit under the dash cover.