Grind that little lip off, remove the guts, install a bolt through the center hole, reinstall the switch to act as a plug. Put a brake light switch on the brake pedal where it belongs.
Interference fit. Carl
You forgot to include “…on a critical life saving system that operates at high pressure”.
What could go wrong?
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I tracked down my “no brake lights” problem and discovered that the lamp connectors were intermittent.
I bit the bullet and got two new tail light housings - problem solved.
Also … suspecting the hydraulic brake light switch, I purchased a new one from NAPA. Inside the box was a small piece of paper with a warning. Not compatible with DOT 5 fluid
I’ve seen that on other brake parts (e.g. master cylinders) but have never had an issue though I have been using DOT5 for 20+ years.
Are the threads for the E-Type switch the same as used by VW? Among the VW owners the best results come from using German-made switches (brand ATE) though they cost more (about $20). Some VW vendors offer a choice, others won’t even carry the cheap stuff:
Jag switches are 3/8 BSP threads - 19 tpi. Hella sell switches with 1/8 NPTF thread(27tpi). An indispensable tool here is a thread gauge - both metric and imperial is best.
jp
I don’t think the brake light switch is anything close to that. 1/8 BSP or 1/8NPT, with my money on the former.
Thats what this site says :- https://www.terrysjag.com/product/E-TYPE-SER15-ELECTRICAL-SWITCHES/SMB423IM.html
Must admit it looks more like 1/8.
jp