Brake master cylinder innards

I’m rebuilding brakes as part of a partial resto. Car is a 1964 E-type Series 1, 3.8L, Moss box / non-synchro 1st.

I removed the two brake master cylinders, and pulled them apart. One contains a typical Series 1 piston and related parts. The other contains something similar, but a different configuration. Possibly from a Series 2? I just don’t know, but the brakes have worked fine for the last 25+ years.

The rebuild kits seem to be universal, and contain enough seals and cups for either configuration. I’m tempted to just put in the new bits and be done with it, but would probably be happier with matching Series 1 pistons. Am I over-analyzing, or should I start looking for someone with a rebuildable Series 1 piston. Thanks!

Just for grins, I’m including pics showing the source of a little clutch pedal play. Hahaa!

Dave




It is very important to have the ovaled hole part of the clutch clevis fork welded up and the position of the pin put back on the right side of the oval or else your clutch risks not disengaging all the way. This can mean you can wear out your synchro hubs in a few thousand miles or less.

Dennis 69 OTS

At some point someone’s replaced one of your pistons with another one out of the spares box.

New masters don’t come as pairs with the two different length pistons, so not having the originals is probably moot.

I’d just put it all back together again as it all worked before you pulled it apart.

I’ve seen a number of forks like that.

The one on the left is definitely wrong. On my 64, one piston is long and one is short but they have identical types and seals. The length is why the castings have different part numbers. I forget which is which. I’m sure the archives have that info. I have no idea if the 3.8 seal kit would work on that left hand piston assembly.

Have you examined that casting closely? I wonder if it’s an aftermarket assembly. It can’t be from any E-type because once they went to the 4.2, the entire master changed to the big Lockheed. If you can figure out whether the original one you do have is the front or back maybe you can find the other original kind on Ebay or from one of the usuals. Meanwhile you might have to buy a new replacement for it unless you can figure out what kind of seals you need for that oddball.

Definitely fix that fork. That’s a mess.

I have some CAD drawings for the originals if you want to have some made.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions!

Dave

Fyi, can’t find a “correct” used 3.8L master cyl piston anywhere, so ended up buying a repro unit.

Also, welded up and re-drilled the clevis fork. One step closer, but many more to go.

If it help, here are the internals from my S2 '69 car CLUTCH MC. It looks a lot like the item on the left in your OP.

Cheers
Jacko