Kavli,
I am glad I did not spend the $650.00 for the factory manuals!
The Haynes manual DOES mention it…In the brake section I think.
I know its correct, because I did my brakes, and did not open
the bleeder, and had the problem, and everyone else who had the
problem, had put new pads on.
As my first abs car, I had no idea…and there was nothing on
the list about it, the haynes was not out yet.
You (and others on the list) may benefit from ALL my mistakes!
Brett
1990 XJ6
…
Message-Id: 199806191136.NAA04727@sussie.datadesign.seTo: Brett Gazdzinski <@Brett_Gazdzinski>
Cc: modern@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: Brake pad replacement proceedure (revisited)
In-reply-to: Your message of “Thu, 18 Jun 1998 08:20:00 EDT.”
<19980618122225.WQZL7401@[166.32.177.21]>
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 12:36:13 +0100
From: “Ronny H. Kavli” kavli@sussie.datadesign.se
Dont push the fluid back into the system.
The haynes manual is fine for most jobs, there are just some things
they didnt know about. As you have access to the list, you can
avoid a lot of pitfalls. There is stuff on the list that is not
in the Jaguar manuals. I priced the manuals for my car at the
dealer, and got a quote of $650.00U.S.!
I checked my Jaguar manuals (Publ. part # JJM 10 04 05) yesterday,
to see what it said about brake-pad replacement.
I quote from the manual section 70.40.02:
Front Brake Pads
Renew
Slacken the road wheel nuts 1/4 of a turn each.
Jack up the vehicle and place on one stand.
Remove one road wheel securing nut, mark the road
wheel relative to a stud and remove the remaining nuts.
Remove the road wheel and tyre assembly.
Remove the brake pad war sensor block connector (fig. ref) from
the clip (fig. ref) and disconnect.
Remove the caliper to carrier lower securing bolt and
pivot the caliper (fig. ref) upwards to gain access to the
brake pads.
Remove the brake pads. (fig. ref)
Taking all necessary safety precautions remove the
brake dust from around the caliper area.
Fit the brake pads to the caliper ensure that the caliper
piston if fully retracted, swing caliper down over the
brake pads, align the lower bolt hole and fit the lower
bolt.
Tighten the upper and lower caliper securing bolts.
Connect the pad wear sensor block connector and secure behind the clip.
Lift the road wheel and tyre assembly up to the hub,
align the wheel with the marked stud and secure with
the nuts.
Take the weight of the vehicle with a jack, remove the
axle stand, lower the vehicle and recheck the torque of
the wheel nuts.
Repeat the procedure for the other side.
– end of quote –
No hint whatsoever to bleed the fluid.
The only place I can find a vague hint, is in the brake caliper overhaul
procedure, which says:
“Push home the piston by bulling the body. It may be necessary to open the
bleed screw to allow the fluid to be pushed back from behind the piston, more
easily.”
If the bleed screw really has to be opened to avoid damages to the valve-
body, then I think this is an extremely vague way of formulating it.
Anyway, to avoid a potential security hazard I will follow your advice
Brett and bleed the fluid. Because bleeding it will definitely not cause
harm to the system. – But I don’t think Haynes can be blamed when even the
manufacturer “forgets” to supply that information.
– Kavli ('87 Sov.)