(Brake) Pedal to the metal

Doh! Rockauto didn’t have that. I should have looked farther. Oh well, rebuilt master cylinders are great too. Mine ‘looks’ brand new.

just be weary, i’ve seen Part Geeks mess up with what the photo is and what you get.

It would be great for you if you get those white pieces with the seals already installed. I got my white things in, but my thumbs had a major workout.

What’s amazing about it? A reasonable price for a master cylinder, possibly even a bit steep.

well, i am happy with that. Part ordered, so here i go. I assume i wont have any issue with this setup on the 4.0 motor and engine bay? More room i guess.

You have a stick or an A/T?

slant 6, 4.0 Automatic on this car

Yeah, a stick would have made it complicated, as you’d have to worry about the clutch pedal. The pre-ABS pedal housing has no facility for a clutch pedal, although it may be possible to machine it. The pedal housing on my '83 had a deliberate flat spot, as though all you’d have to do is drill it to fit a clutch master cylinder. I don’t know if the very early (mid-70’s) clutch master cylinder setup bears any resemblance to the clutch pedal setup on the very late (90’s) 6-banger with a stick.

All good, though, since you have an A/T.

You will need to connect a vacuum line to somewhere. I dunno where it goes on the 6-banger, but note that the very very late XJ-S (the last year) had a Teves IV brake system which utilizes a conventional vacuum-boosted power brake system. So, you could simply look at how it’s connected up on those cars and possibly even buy those parts.

The XJ-S with vacuum-boosted brakes typically had a vacuum storage canister somewhere, like forward of the RF wheel. That’s probably to provide boost for x applications after the engine is shut off. I’ve owned several cars with power brakes that didn’t have such a canister, the vacuum line is simply connected directly from the engine to the boost module. I wouldn’t bother with it; if later on you decide you need it, you can go back and add that storage canister.

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Buyer beware - I bought that exact one from Parts Geek. No white thingys despite what the picture shows.

I was aware of the canister and did not add it when I converted. My experience is that it is not needed.

Obviously, we need a reliable source for those white thingys. I expect if they were easy to find, the rebuilts would include them. Perhaps something made of brass or stainless steel is in order. Perhaps some generic fitting can be modified to fit. Perhaps 3D printing can come to the rescue.

Note: If anyone fabs something, please make the fittings fit the size hoses that connect to the Mitsubishi reservoir rather than the OEM Jaguar reservoir.

@John_John1 , are you listening?

Thanks for that. It may end up going back anyway. More to come.

So I located someone with a 95 car, which has the vacuum system again and he sent me some photos of where the vacuum tube connects with the manifold. Bad news is that the same port is not present on my car. I actually don’t see anything that resembles a vacuum port on my lump. I will take a really close look on Saturday when I have more time, but it looks like the AJ6 (mine) is quite different from the AJ16 with regards to exterior hoses, fittings and electrical, even though they are basically the same engine. This means that even the later Teves IV system probably won’t work for me. More research and returned parts I guess!

It’s usually not too difficult to connect a vacuum line to an engine, even if it never had one. Might need to drill a hole. You might need a check valve in the line.

The AJ6 engine was introduced in the mid 80’s, before the advent of ABS in Jags. Presumably one of those early 3.6 XJ-S’s would have a vacuum connection for power brakes. Perhaps some owner can snap a pic for us.

I learned that frequently the “elbow” that connects the vac line to the servo has an integral check valve.

hope this helps:

I got the two “grommets” or seals that the two white things plug into by buying a new master cylinder rebuild kit. About $18. The other orings and stuff, i keep in my junk drawer.

The two white things, I found them NOS searching for the original Girling SP4140/2 Master Cylinder Kit which included those white things. Here’s a photo of what it came with. The rubber seals were way too hard to use, which is why I bought a modern kit for those.

Like I said, if I didn’t find this NOS, i was going to look at VW parts, which have similar white things. Just not sure if we can find the same size. Should be standard?

My originals were OK, but there was a tiny nick in one of them, which would not seal.

Hi Kirbert,

I actually have one “new old stock” set of these fittings. I was actually thinking about reproducing them (either 3D printing or machining form stainless steel), but I’m not sure if there is enough interest in them.

I think it’d be easy to gauge the interest. IF there is a similar part from some other model car that will fit, interest will be minimal. If not, though, sooner or later lots of people are going to want a set. Especially if, as is apparent, the rebuilders are sending master cylinders out without the $%^ things, putting the onus on the owner to find some and pry them into the openings.

Well, I found these things.

I don’t expect those would fit the XJ-S because they stick straight up. Master cylinder looks similar, doesn’t it?

I also found this thing sold everywhere, sometimes in white and sometimes in black:

Looking at the following picture, it appears those things are simply clamped onto the master cylinder;

https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Remote%20Tandem%20Master%20Cylinder

Ooooh, here’s another interesting critter:

I wonder if that would fit?

With some basic machine work one could make something like this, tap the hole for say 1/8 NPT, screw in a close nipple, then screw on a 90d barb.