I’ve seen a tool which is a pliers-type arrangement with the gripping bit several inches long with the appropriate sized groove in each half. they could be used to straighten existing pipes with flares and fittings already fitted.
Chris i was refering to the tool Roger posted the link to and you said you might get…was just giving you tne heads up…Steve
You can make a straight tool by bolting three rollers ( skate wheels)to the edge of a bench in a triangle spaced appropriately
Jim
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Been busy with work kids and the other project (1975 FJ40). Slowly getting into the brakes and clutch. Started with the clutch slave cylinder and replaced that with a new one. Ordered clutch and brake master cylinders from Welsh, but will probably have to send them back. The clutch has a fork that is welded on and mine is adjustable…doesn’t look compatible. The brake master was the TRW and I have Dunlop. I will at some point replace the brake lines, but want to keep the Dunlop…maybe. I have a rebuild kit for the Dunlop, but when I pulled the piston out, the remainder of the master (rubber seals) stayed in the middle of the cylinder. Is there a good way to get those parts out to put new ones in? If not, I may just have to order new brake lines and rebend now. Talk about slow and steady.
Just wanted to bump this thread to see if anybody has suggestions.
You can blow out stuck parts with compressed air.
Or reach in there with a hook tool and snag them.
Here is what it looked like (the top is the clutch). Here is what it looks like now. About halfway inside the bore it appears stuck:
Ok so you mean the piston is stuck. I thought just the rubber parts.
First clean out the exposed bore as best you can.
Soak it or load it up with penetrating oil and let it sit for a week.
Then heat up the outside with a propane torch.
Slam it down on the workbench and it might dislodge the piston.
Find a screw plug for one port and a grease fitting for the other.
Pump it full of grease and the pressure might move the piston.
If still no luck, send it to White Post or Apple Hydraulics and they will probably drill out the piston.
Perfect…when I get home from work, I’ll give this a shot and report back.
Quick update. Had to go to Whitepost to get the master rebuilt. It’s a Dunlop master, and he was able to turn it around in a day. So…I have the master brake and clutch ready to install…installed both but the the brake line fitting that sends fluid to the rest of the car (versus the fitting that comes from the reservoir) was stripped and I couldn’t get it to seat into the master. It turns out, that this fitting is hard to find. None of the shops have it, tried British Fittings, and other places. Does anybody know where I can get this fitting? If I can’t find the fitting, I guess I’ll have to get a brake line rebuild or replacement kit. Anybody have suggestions for that as well? Thank you guys!
What country are you in?
I thought those fittings were SAE threads. Advance Auto Parts and Autozone have them.
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I’m in the USA. I have been to Napa and another local auto part shop. They didn’t have the fitting. I can try autozone but don’t have much confidence.
You may have to buy a pre-made length of tube in order to get the fitting.
Do you know about making the double flare ends on the tubing?
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Rob. I have the double flare tool and that was my plan.
@Mike_S any idea where I can get the pressure side fitting? Mine is a little different config than your pics just because I have that Dunlop master. But, that’s the fitting size I needed.
Is there such a thing as flexible brake line I can use to replace the old hardline?
At Autozone try AGS BLF-10C-5 brake line nuts for 3/16" tube.
If that’s not it, keep looking on the display rack; they don’t list the thread sizes on their web site but they have both SAE and metric.
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Let me look. I’m a little hamstrung at the moment. I just had cataract surgery, I’m not supposed to be driving and all my brake hardware is at my shop. I’ve got lots of brake fittings there. I think I’m good to drive tomorrow.
On a Dunlop master cylinder the input (reservoir) fitting is a 7/16" x 20 TPI double flare male tube nut for 1/4" line. The output fitting is a 3/8" x 24 TPI double flare male tube nut for 3/16" line. When I was replacing the brake system in my XK120 I went through the inventory of the helpful FLAPS and they had nothing in those sizes. I ended up going to Brake Hoses Unlimited (www.brakehoses.biz) and they had everything I needed to replace every fitting, brake bleeder and hard line in the car. No connection, but a valuable resource.
This is awesome. Thank you guys.
@Mike_S , I hope you will be able to see 20/20! Thanks for looking but no rush.
@Mike_Eck This is perfect! Thank you.
@Rob_Reilly ill head there to see.
I’ll update you guys when I get something.
The 7/16-20 side is for use with a fitting that seals with a gasket or copper washer. This can be a nipple (as shown above) or a banjo.
The 3/8 -24 side is for a male tube nut with an inverted flare tube end. You can tell the difference by looking down into the female port. If the bottom cone looks like you are looking into a martini glass, it’s not a inverted flare fitting. If the internal cone is pointing up at you, then it requires an inverted flare tube end and a male tube nut.
In the photo below the two fittings in the middle are a brass female fitting and a steel male fitting, both for inverted flare tubing.
