If so, this is very easy way to push them out, split calipers, plug any holes with bleeders, connect brake hose, block piston from spitting out with G-clamp, knock piston right back in to break any corrosion seal, use foot pedal and hydraulic pressure to push out piston, just as intended, does not need power assist from booster/engine (hard leg pushing)
Peter,
In addition to Tony’s excellent advice:
Question: Specifically which model MC are you referring to and is it Dunlop or Girling MC?
This is IMPORTANT as The Girling has a tipping valve held by a 1/2 Allen head set screw in the cylinder casting.
Method for removal:
Obtain a 1/8NPT to 3/8-24 UNF or 7/16-20 UNF SAE 45 degree male flare adaptor.
Most grease guns and air compressor nozzles are 1/8 NPT although some are 1/8 BSP.
The ports to the MC are 3/8-24 UNF for the Dunlop MCs and the Girling MCs, depending on which version, also have a couple of 7/16-20 UNF ports.
There is a company in Australia that likely has the components you would need. RYCO.
Compressed air and wood block or thick cloth for safety up to about 120psi max and vey explosive if it releases.
Or
Grease gun filled with RED RUBBER grease to avoid contamination and up to about 500psi and gentle built up and release.
Or better yet, fit to the servo on the car and available pressure up to in excess of 1000 psi.
I have resorted to all 3 methods and can say that in many instances the 120PSI air compressor was simply not up to the task!