Brass Freeze Plugs

I just removed the Lump from my 120 FHC. It’s actually a 140 Lump, but that is fine with me. I’m wondering if there is anything I should be doing wilst the Lump is out? Brass Freeze plugs? Get the exhaust manifolds redone? (where?). I’ve already had the flywheel turned. What a paint that was to remove!
RF.

I had my exhaust manifold porcelain coating done by Prairie Porcelain in Minnesota. Excellent job and still holding up fine after about 7 years.
PICT0001

Core plugs rust from the inside out if you just use straight water. I don’t really see the need for brass plugs, steel will last if you use anti-freeze with rust inhibitor. But certainly change them if you are uncertain of their condition inside.

Inspect the crank damper rubber. I had mine rebuilt by Damper Doctor in California.

Great info Rob! Any contact info on any of this?

Many Thanks, RF.

Interesting: did you use a specific break-in heating procedure?

Yes, it was whatever Prairie recommended. I think it might be on their web site.

With regards to resurfacing the flywheel, do you know how much material was removed or if it had ever been done previously? The following is a paragraph pertaining to this subject from Guy Broad
“A problem we are now beginning to experience is difficulty in obtaining correct adjustment when the flywheel has been skimmed several times. Most flywheels are now over sixty years old. The problem is more evident on 120/140 mechanical linkage systems as a considerable amount of the thread on the adjuster push-rod will be needed. It is also not as simple as just adding a longer push- rod: the whole action of the clutch linkage starts to bind up on itself. The only long-term cure is a new flywheel!”

Or you can convert to a 9 1/2” E-Type pressure plate & release bearing (flywheel will have to be redrilled) and a centerline 9 1/2” ford disc (CTF281222 @ Summit Racing) to mate with the Tremec T5 conversion. Diaphragm type pressure plates require less pedal effort and travel distance to disengage/engage, also have the flywheel/pressure plate balanced as an assembly.

If your “lump” ever showed any cooling problems, it would be worthwhile to remove one freeze plug from each side of the engine to observe whether there is any debris that could be obstructing the coolant flow.
It’s much easier to clean-out the block with the engine out of the car.
Dick

Thanks All,
Supposedly this car 68066 was originally sold in L.A. California and was parked in '63. It had the 140 engine swap early it’s life. It was a very nice, low mileage, barn find car, discovered and recommissioned some 20 years ago by a local Jag guy up here in Northern CA. The car was recently featured and sold to me on BaT.
The PO rebuilt the 140 lump, rewired it, and had the original radiator & fuel tank cleaned out. He also treated it to a very expensive paint job. It is gorgeous, and ran as good as it looked.
I fell in love with the car, and didn’t want to gamble on the 20 year old tires, despite the fact that they appeared perfect in every way. So I bought some Blockleys from England. They woke the car up by at least a magnitude of 4! So I figured the next best adult thing to do was to get the front end aligned. This is when we discovered a slightly worn ball joint, and the press-in pin & bushings of the tie rod. “No Problem” I said, I’ll gladly rebuild the front suspension; this baby deserves it.
So I am in the middle of that rebuild when the Tremec 5spd came. I’m getting too old to do things twice, hence the plea for advice at this point.
The flywheel sure seems thick still, and we only took off about .010" to smooth out a score, BUT, the surface machine had to cut a lot off one side, as if the flywheel was warped, or perhaps surfaced crookedly previously? I’ll check it for true to the crank flange where it mounts to.
The car has an incorrect aluminum fan mounted up close behind the radiator, and hidden overflow tank in the wheel well. It never had any overheating problems with this set-up.
Many THANKS for all the input. Please keep it coming!
RF.