Broken head stud mk 2

It’s as it came to me , with only one ali lifting eye . I thought it strange .

No good for my problem , heat would need to be applied at the base of the stud

“………I would spray de ruster down the stud , leave over night , weld a nut on the stud , run engine till hot , then remove stud with nut , buy a new stud , easy lol……”

The previous suggestion, above, is the professional approach. I have removed literally dozens of studs on 6 cylinder R-R engines with this method.

However, it is best to use an Arc welder and not a Tig, or Mig, in the former the earth path on the welder goes through the stud and its thread into the block. This action tends to break rust and corrosion on the stud itself and in the bottom thread.

If you don’t have an Arc welding unit then look up your local Lloyds coded welder and get them to do the welding. Much cheaper than trying to remove the cylinder head, and probably less than the cost of the head gasket.

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I do not understand how the earth path would be any different on a mig vs. an arc welder. Could you explain?

Will running the engine with one stud broken or nut removed result in a blown head gasket?

Could, but not likely if not run hard and just once. But I don’t see the point so much.

Hi
If there’s only 1/2" of thread sticking out, to make some height I used a stud joiner and a locking nut, but I had soaked with diesel for over a week.


I was removing the head,and left plugs in,and filled the hole CH well with diesel.
Hope this helps, I’m a recent learner.
Rob

Geoff

There is indeed no difference in the earth path, but the Arc welder in that situation has the capability of real deep penetration through the earthing point. The situation I am trying to explain is that the normal MIG and TIG units used by the average car owner are short of power for this particular job.

For instance if you wanted to weld heavy plate the choice would be by Arc, one flash with a heavy Arc unit leaves the lower threaded section of a cylinder head stud extremely hot to say the least.

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Thanks guys for all the input . If the stud remover fails I’ll get a nut welded on .

Especially as he’s a Daimler!!:grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes::grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes::grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes:

I would listen to this guy, and not try a stud remover, quite likely to just snap an old brittle stud
that is obviously already compromised, so you may only get one shot at it

the arc welder puts a huge amount of heat, (I have used the rod tip as an induction heater)

mobile welders are dime-a -dozen over here, used arc welding unit would be $50

ATF and mineral turps is what I use, let it soak at least one day

Ok. That makes more sense thanks.

I agree about the arc welder probably being better for this job although the weld may be a bit more prone to cracking but I do not see why the earth current would travel all the way down through the alloy head to the bottom of the stud when you are welding on a nut that is resting on the alloy head? the shortest earth path would be through the new nut and to the head, different if the head were removed.

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Hoping to cut the dome off the nut , weld the top , keeping the nut clear of the head . What’s the difference between , Tig , Mig and arc , anybody ?

Is this suitable for the job , and for a Muppet to use ?
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If you have not welded before it would not be a good idea to attempt to weld this stud yourself. While very straight forward for an experienced welder remember that as others have stated you probably get only one good shot at removing the stud. It is not really the place to learn to weld.

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I hear what you say , but I plan to learn to weld before attempting this . It can’t be that difficult , just plenty of practice . If it takes a week that’s ok , it’ll give the plus gas time to do it’s work . I just wanted to know if the welder in my pictures was good enough for the job .

If it is your plan to learn to weld and just do this job that welder would be sufficient. If your plan is to eventually do other repairs/body work in the future you might be better off to get a multi function welder that can do mig/tig and stick.

And do a welding course maybe? I know I failed hard the one time I tried to weld. But it must have been the welder, I‘m sure.
What’s plus gas?

I don’t think I have ever seen an electric welder of any type that would be too small to puddle-weld the inside of a steel nut to a broken stud. The skill of the operator is always the limiting factor. If you can weld, use what you have available. When you weld aluminum, you need to be picky, but you can weld mild steel with anything. These days, most of the stainless steel sanitary piping welding done in the field is done with 120V inverter welders the size of a 6-pack cooler. Other than that, I completely agree with the welding the nut to the stud approach.

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