Building Realm C type

You need to explain in more detail…does the whole wheel/column move or do you mean you turn the wheel slightly clockwise/anti clockwise and nothing happens…there is no adjustment …should be basic fault finding…as soon as you turn the steering wheel your road wheels should move…Steve

The play is felt when moving side to side not actually turning the steering wheel.

thx

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If it’s the inner column moving within the outer, it’s likely the bearings are worn, assuming you have an XJ column. S1s use tapered roller bearings, not sure about S2, but S3 use roller or ball bearings. The S1 type can be shimmed to remove excess play ( although you’re probably not supposed to) but with later type I think you’re stuffed unless you can find replacement bearings, you cerainly can’t with the S1 as they are tiny. If you’re using a Mk2\S Type\ E Type column, they use nylon bushes which are readily available and easy to fit. You need to know what you’re working with, first.

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FWIW…,on my ‘68 it has the adjustable (in/out) steering column. It has rotational play, about 1/8 to 1/4 inch measured at the rim. This play is caused by the I’ll fitting of the two piece upper adjustable column. I’ve tried shimming the lower section to take out the play between the two but that turned out to be temporary. I feel the only fix is the weld the two sections together to mimic the earlier type.

No idea if this type of column is fitted to the car in question but as I say, FWIW.

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Thx . When it stops raining here, I’m dropping it off at the Jag shop as i sadly am NOT a wrencher. This info will go with me to the shop!!!
thx a million

Ok, rain has stopped here in Cambria for the present. Did you find a Jag shop for your ‘C’? There is a S.F. club member that moved to Palm Springs/Desert area that owns a replica C. PM me if you need a contact. Otherwise come up to Cambria sometime. We have 2 ‘D’s’ in town! One Realm and the other a Tempero.

This is what I got done this weekend.

Remove and replace clutch master cylinder rod to adjust clutch free play.
Cut rod to correct length.
Reinstall master cylinder rod with retaining washer, circlip and boot. .
Install retaining clip to clevis pin on clutch pedal. (Circlip missing and the pin was falling out of the clevis assembly).
Clutch pedal too tight to release clutch, causing slip. Reset clutch pivot bolt torque.

Replace brake pedal pivot nut (SAE nut was installed on Metric bolt, force fit).
Remove washer stack and reset pedal bolt torque using new metric nut.
Reinstall clip-on clevis pin (previously installed upside down and disconnected).

Brakes still need service to correct low initial pedal when driving.

Tighten steering wheel
Install new washer stack and nut to properly seat the steering wheel adapter on the steering shaft.
Remaining looseness is in column adjustment collar.

I see a slow oil leak in the back so now that will need to be addressed.

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I will say this. The individual that built this car should not be BUILDING THESE CARS!!!

This thing was NOT SAFE TO DRIVE.

PM me. I may know your ‘individual’ if you are interested.

Blizzard: I sent you back an email, but not sure it got thru to you?

Hi…photos of your set up would be good for us to help you…clutch/brake pedal pivot should be bushed and not be able to bind .not sure what your refering to as washer stacks…your clutch slave cylinder would also benefit from an external return spring if not fitted to prevent thrust bearing wear…clutch master cylinder…“cutting rod to length”…it should be an adjustable rod…this does not adjust your clutch free play only the pedal…clutch adjustment is made at the slave cylinder pushrod…if you dont think the previous owner/ builder has done this correctly then you really do need to evaluate the system…posting photos will let us point out the rights and wrongs…Steve

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I saw this string and found it encouraging as I happen to be starting to try to resurrect an early 90’s Heritage Engineering C-Type. Glad to see I’m not the only one on a journey with one of these cars.

The car I’ll be working on sat for a decade so I plan to go through the motor (its currently stuck), carbs + fuel system, and the brake & clutch systems. It should be an interesting journey and I’m sure I’ll learn a lot since I’m more of an American Muscle Car + modern sports car kind of guy.

Note: I’m doing this project to help a family friend who would love to see it back on the road. It was originally made for him in the early 90’s but he parked it when he had kids a decade or so ago.

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Hi Andrew great to be helping out a friend…im still building mine its 90% complete…just not getting time to finnish it…fire away with questions im sure you will get plenty of help…im only about an hour drive away from Realm workshop…Steve

Thanks Steve!

I have to sheepishly admit that my first question concerns jacking points (this is no Mustang!).

I’ve been using my iPhone camera to take photos under the car so I can determine the best spot to place my jack and where to put jack stands. I need to remove the transmission and will eventually replace the front and rear brake rotors/pads but don’t want to damage the fiberglass or other components.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

BTW, my 14 year old son is helping me with this project and he’s getting impatient despite me telling him this may take a couple of years (it’s only been a week since we started). :joy: It’s great to see his excitement and my wife loves seeing us work on a father/son project (I keep catching her taking pics of me explaining what we’re doing and why).

Thanks again,
Andrew

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Hi Andrew…is your chassis the same as mine…here it is upside down…i like to use a low trolly jack centrally on the large cross member under the radiator…Not the bonnet pivot frame…then axel stands outboard of the jack or under the lower wishbones…jack the rear under the diff use a piece of timber across the diff mount brackets and axel stands either side on the square cross member just forward of the diff…uh great a youngster to help…depending on gearbox it can removed from in the cabin…but far easier to remove as a unit with engine…if you have side access i your garage you dont even need to remove the bonnet/hood…just lift it up and pisition an engine hoist in from the side

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Steve,

Thank you for the pictures. The frames are definitely similar. I read that Roger Worall (sp?) built cars of this vintage as Heritage Engineering before Realm took over Heritage so it makes sense that they’re similar (I’m not sure how accurate that is but I’ve run across the statement a few times online).

The upside down picture is especially helpful since the car has partial belly pans that run from just behind the front tires to the rear cross member. They cover just enough to have made me unsure of the construction.

As for room in the garage, I have to hand it to my wife…she loves cars and wanted to see this one saved so she gave up her parking space to make room for the C Type. I was surprised by how small it looks next to my Supra. Even with both cars in the garage, I have enough space to work but can always move the Supra to the driveway if needed.

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Jeffrey’s pic has been bouncing around my brain while working on our car.

For Steve…If there’s ever a concern about the structural integrity, you can have Realm add the extra bracing Heritage used to install at this location.

Hi Andrew…I have no concern on the integrity of the Realm chassis…I know Adrian at Realm and the chassis builder…i know many Realm owners and have never heard of a failure in this area…In the UK befor the car can be registeted it need to pass a rigorous safety inspection (IVA) test…Steve

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