Buying engine oil and car stuff costs

Prices are up…most places, but I just got Mobil 1 15-50 (has correct zddp) at Walmart for USD $27 for 5 gal jug. Other oils , antifreeze, and car stuff much cheaper than anyother autoparts chain store, where good oil is 8-11$ per qt, 37 to 42 per 5 qt. The Walmart in little ol Spokane WA now has a Police car and a security car parked in front while store is open, and a staffed metal detector gateway at the entrance, a staff at the exit only doors. also…–in usa–autozone will take used old oil–up to 20 qts.
An aside: I still want a special custom wrench,–thin, with the right bend, to fit and turn the engine via the big odd size nut on the front of the engine crank/lower pulley. For mine at least…the nut sits in a depression in the pulley center–so a wrench end barely fits on…the arm of the wrench against the pulley center. While a socket will fit on the nut, there is no clearance. room for the wratchet handle to fit.

Home Depot, a bit of polishing with a gas axe, and yer set!

Woops… 1-5/16", but you get the idea.

Ouch! I think I would go to Ace Hardware and buy a 1-5/16" socket for $10 and spend another $7 for a piece of flat steel bar and weld them together.

That’d work, too! Just make sure it’s a 12 point socket… :slight_smile:

That’s one expensive wrench. Try Harbor Freight

As I recall I used a 6" extension with a socket and turned it from the front of the car. It might have been a 12" extension. At my age distance is relative.

Here’s what I have

Haha, that’s cheatin’ Pat. :laughing:

The problem with the XK120 is there’s not a lot of room.

My regular 1-5/16" socket won’t fit in there.

What’s the opposite of a deep well socket? Is there a shallow well?
Looks like your best bet is to get a box wrench and have somebody with an oxy/acetylene torch bend it into a chicane shape.

$12.09 on Amazon

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More ways to skin the proverbial cat. Lots of engines use a 3/4-16 damper bolt. ARP makes a 12 point variant for several of them. The 12 point bolts take a 13/16" 12 point socket or box end wrench. Very compact. You can find them cataloged for most mid 50’s-70’s Chrysler V8s, Buick V6 and Oldsmobile V6 and V8. Also, some Boeing mil-spec surplus landing gear.

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I have several ancient Whitworth ring spanners with goosenecks and the ones that have 3/4" W on one end reach up perfectly from below and allow you to get right on the nut on all Jags I have come across.

I will take a picture of one

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Or, eliminate the socket altogether. The Chrysler, Buick and Olds version of this bolt would swap. Note that this only engages every 90 degrees,not nearly as convenient with the engine installed.

I usually like your fastener upgrades, but that big crank bolt has never given me any trouble, and I cant really see how it ever would, maybe if you want to save every gram on a race engine

I recently acquired a 12 point 33mm 1/2" drive socket.

I would be surprised if I cant get that onto it

My 1-5/16 and 3/4W sockets are 3/4" drive and that does make it hard to get them in situ

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And mine, as well. The 13/16 12 point head just makes it so much easier to deal with in situ.

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that does make sense,

when I take my pic tomorrow, I will see if my 33mm x 1/2" will work like my Whitworth spanner, ie, I do not have to lift the car at all, can just reach up from the ground

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I have the 1-5/16" in a 3/4" drive, but I have NO clue why: I do have a copy in 1/2 drive.

I can see how a 3/4 drive would be hard to get in there, being so chunky.

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All my Imperial 1/2" socket sets have 1-1/4" as the largest size, although no doubt you can get a 1-5/16" in 1/2"

Metric sockets are standard 1/2" drive up to 36mm

The 33mm one was on sale for $12, it will have one job in life,
its a very tight fit on the bolt head

The 3/4 drive gear gets in the way, as its so much bulkier…but you know all that :grinning:

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good thoughts…I think I want to see IF–I can get a 1 5/16 socket cut all the way thru so it is thin in depth, …just the same depth as the big nut…then weld a flat handle…In place–there just isn’t much room. I have need to turn my engine–for timing etc only very occasionally…but I find in helping others set up timing–it comes up more often…and is a PIA.

Look on Amazon: Proferred T46024 Combination Wrench 1 5/16 $6.19 Take a torch and bend it into an offset

As promised, here is a comparison of some crank bolt rotating tools

The winner is 3/4W crank spanner as pictured.

The max space in next pic between fan shroud and damper pulley is 1"

I have 3 of these spanners as pictured below, only 2 would easily fit on the bolt with me just lying on the ground, vehicle not lifted at all

The thicker built one has the same offset, but is sturdier, and I couldnt wiggle it on

The ideal neck crank distance is ~ 1" and slim profile. The middle one is my main man

None of these configurations can get on from below without removing the fan shroud

1-5/16 x 3/4" 33mm x 1/2" and I found I have a 3/4W x 1/2" socket, which is shortest of all, so I wasted my $12 on the 33mm 12 point

There is a number of used 3/4" W spanners on eBay, and that may possibly be the best way to go

@Mike_S suggestion of different size crankbolt makes more sense to me after that exercise, especially if you are a long term owner who likes to tinker

Radiator or engine out would be the time to do it

I have a specialised Industrial fastener shop 20mins drive away.
I write down all the stuff I need and visit them periodically,
might see what they have for this


My pal got fed up with trying to turn the crank so he knocked up the above - a cut down socket attached to a tyre lever

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