These look pretty easy and effective. A circular top plate would be a bit more elegant.
I aligned my 2+2 today and had mentioned above I would follow up with a report…
5 years ago I had aligned this E by using Fastrax (you can look it up) both setting toe and camber…
Yesterday, 6/17/2018, I checked the alignment using my straight piece method, as described above…
What I found was…
Toe was way off…toed in…and needed to be brought out…
Camber was and is set equal on both sides…that is tilted as far in (at the top of the tire) as the left side will allow and the right side is matched…I would if I could like more tilt. It just is not possible AND in reality is tilted out as the straight pieces become farther apart.
Question comes to mind, regardless of alignment method used, the reality is, “We (us E owners) can not get enough tilt”…
SO HOW DO, YOU RACERS OUT THERE, GET THE CAMBER TO RACE OR TRACK THE E??
While this camber setting is fine for everyday use…from a performance point of view…ie racing…I would need the ability to set camber where I see fit…there surely must be, be it ultra expensive, an upper control arm that allows this??? The geometry especially the front geometry is “straight forward with the tubing and all” that ALL E’s suffer this…unless a different control arm is used.
I think they machine the surface of the bracket - removing material from the face that the shims are against - to get more negative camber than the original parts will allow.
Geo,
Already been there and did this (5 years ago)…took off all the material I dare…truth be told, There is not enough material there to really make any difference"
Geo,
The good news for you is, Fastrax set the camber correctly.
RIP Jerry…
because he would have been all over my question (above) with an answer…instead I get silence
I know to “race and E” one had to use a plate to lock down the rear end…
Still…How do you track an E without being able to dial in the camber???
Each 1/16" you remove adds ¼° of negative camber – how much are you trying for?
What sort of racing are you doing?
On my race XKE, I machined some metal off of the pivot mount and the base mount. I was able to get as much as 3 degrees negative camber if needed. Turned out with the other modifications, I was using 1 degree negative as the car had virtually no roll. I was also using 0 castor so the camber did not change in the corners. The front upper a-arm mount was lowered about an inch. Normally when the front suspension is compressed, the camber actually goes in the positive direction before it goes negative. This repositioning made it go more negative with any movement. On the rear, we had some bronze bushings made to replace the bearing setup. The center hole was offset so we could dial in what we wanted and then drill, tap and install a allen screw to lock the adjustment in place. Must have been good as it still holds the fast time ever run on the JCNA slalom course.
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And I suspect that the driver might have had a little bit to do with that fast time!
That’s the key to getting a correct racing camber curve: on a McPherson strut-type suspension, like my Datsun racer, you use eccentric inner lower arm pivots, and—if possible— a spacer block on the outer end, between the strut and the arm.
Never fully modded an E but created—by hand!!— all the drawings snd dimensioning to do so. I was inspired by Bernard Juhkli’s work on his VERY effective E Type ‘weapon.’
STILL have this idiotic fantasy of when a big bag of money fell on me, to do an E racer…
Paul,
if the bag is big enough and you survive the impact call me up, I‘d love to sit in and learn how and help to fix up an E racer 
Martin
Well…sheis.
Now I suppose I gotta go buy a Lotto ticket.
Reminds me of the If I had money thread of a while back. And, I’m thinking if the filthy lucre fairy dropped a large load of green at the front door I’d keep the E-type pretty much stock and buy at GT40 for the crazy stuff.
Good idea: WAAAY too practical!
Where’s the challenge in that?
