Camshaft oil feed

The camshaft oil feed pipe on my car is leaking at the joint that feeds the LHS camshaft. I tried J& B weld but it only lasted for a day or two. So I have decided to remove the oil feed pipe and fit a new one. However I just can’t undo the banjo bolt which goes into the engine block. This is a very difficult bolt to get to with the engine in the car . I managed to get a 3/8 drive 5/8 A/F socket on it but there isn’t enough space to get a ratchet on it. If I try to use a long socket I bump up against the body before I can get the ratchet on. Using an old 5/8 socket I have which has an Allen key drive I could apply force to undo the bolt but since the head of the bolt is so thin there is a natural tendency for the socket to twist off the bolt head when force is allied. It pretty obvious that this bolt is pretty tight .
Can anyone offer me any guidance as to how to undo this bolt with the engine in the car ( 1970 Series 2 FHC with no A/C)? I have looked at all the threads about leaking camshaft oil feeds and none mention difficulty in getting the bottom banjo bolt undone so what’s my problem? Please help
Stuart

Stuart are you referring to the banjo fitting down by thee dipstick hole? If so I can’t understand why you can’t fit a ratchet. Can you post a photo?

Yes that’s the bolt I am referring to. Give me 5 minutes and I will take a photo and post it
Stuart

While we await your pic, the three copper washers are special inasmuch as they crush to provide the seal. Limited reusability. Always best to reinstall the feed pipes with new washers.

OK here are photos of the situation


image
You can see that there is not much room between the head of the bolt and the engine block even though it is carved out to make some room. In the second you and see that the body is on the left so the long socket I have does not leave enough space between the body and the socket to get a ratchet one. The gray/baron lead is the speedo drive
Stuart

Correction I mean the body is on the right

Just scoped the situation here on my E. Yes, a ratchet will not fit, but a 3/8 drive breaker bar with a standard 12-point socket does.

So I need a 3/8 breaker bar. But is there enough remove to rotate the breaker bar because of the exhaust pipes and the heat shield?
Stuart

It might be a bit tedious but there’s more than sufficient room, though mine is a short stud engine. I’m not familiar with the long stud E-type engine like yours. Should be very nearly the same.

sometimes you have to “make” a tool…maybe grind a socket thinner? and …with the breaker bar…perhaps just breaking loose will be enough to the turn it…or it may be a lot of 12 pt socket…on and off …there are also power angle drives…that spin the socket without moving a handle…Nick

OK I’ll got to Harbor Freight and see if I can find a 3/8 breaker bar. Thanks Nick

Nick I just noticed that you have a XK120. My car should have two Strombergs but someone in the past has fitted two SU from, I believe, a 1952 XK120 C type. The carb identification are AUC702F/R.
Can you confirm that these carbs are indeed off a XK120
Stuart

Here are photos of my carbs


You’ll have just one shot to get this out, so don’t strip anything. I’ve been known to take a six point socket and grind it down so there’s no lead in, for a better bite.

Stuart: those appear not standard for a 120…but if you would post your question and that photo on the XK120-=150 forum you have an answer and detail. There are some experts on 120-150, C Type etc carbs and their numbers and applications on that forum. Nick

Those appear to be SU H8 sandcast carbs, as fitted to the C-type and some special XK140Ms with C-type heads. Quite valuable, I should think.

Edit:

What repros go for:

https://mossmotors.com/su-h8-sandcast-carbs

A short extension on your 3/8 socket will allow a ratchet or breaker bar to fit

I had a similar situation with one of the banjo bolts holding the feed pipe on the back of the engine on the left hand side. I too was limited with the amount of space I had and the bolt was so tight, I ended up rounding it off and could not get it loose.

I ended up at Lowes and purchased this set.


Once I placed the correct sized extractor on the banjo bolt, I gave it a few taps with a wrench (limited space to use anything else) and it came out with just a bit of force.

Wow never seen those before…… seen the screw type extractors for sheared off heads……
Must investigate !
Today’s education completed!

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I’ve never had any issues getting that lower banjo on/off using a basic 5/8 spanner. Mine is a 3.8 though which lacks the later heat shields. A breaker bar should work attacking from the top, although it lacks a ratchet so the possible positions are limited. But since you’ve never done this before, you’ll need to be very careful getting it back on. Banjo bolts are fairly fragile, being hollow. A long bar could easily shear the head off, then you’re in real trouble. I’d be inclined to just remove the obstruction so I can have unfettered access to the work area. It’s not particularly easy to make those things leak free as it is.

If your original line is fractured at the joint, it is possible to braze it up using nothing more than a can of Map gas and a very fine silver solder wire, if you choose. If you’re not confident, a welding shop can do it in 5 minutes.