Cause of overheating after new radiator install

changed my fan and clutch in place with out removing shroud…Hardest part was to get it pulled out… seemed like it would snag on everything… Slid new one in in one piece easily with bolts barely turned in to hold blade to clutch …that was easier… Then getting washers and nuts on studs to water pump was “very fiddly” … Had helper hold it back so it would stay on studs until one nut pulled up a bit to hold it!.. not really that bad … less than one hour…

Hi, I am leaving shroud in place , but cannot slide fan out . Will take metal bracket plate off top of radiator , hope then it slides out?? Gina

With enough maneuvering, I can get my black fan/hayden clutch in and out with everything in place.

I do recall getting out original yellow fan/Jag clutch I could not do that. I think only way was to loosen bottom three nuts on shroud, and remove top nuts. This was a pain, in hindsight i probably should have just got some tin snips and cut back a blade or two, since i tossed the yellow fan afterwards.

I changed the fan and clutch on our 90 XJS V12 a few years back. The original fan clutch was offering no resistance at all and the original white fan was developing cracks around the hub even though the car had less then 30,000 miles at the time.
I used the HD Hayden 2747 and it did take a bit of work to get it in place as the 2747 is almost an inch deeper then the original one. If I was doing it again I would probably go with the Hayden 2947 HD as it is a not as deep and closer to stock.
Replacing the OEM setup made a HUGE difference in operating temps in the hot weather.

Another recommendation, replace the anemic aux electric fan.
John John sells a mod so you can fit a more powerful modern fan.
Or do what i did and buy the Revotek fan/shroud kit (Moss carries it). My original aux fan would take up to a minute to reach cutoff temp, now it only takes 20 seconds!

then after All is said and done… as a reminder of your efforts


you also could cut shroud top and then make a piece to rivet back in

I think it’s the safest and that’s how I did it (albeit mine is a saloon), too much fiddling in there and you might start hitting and bending the radiator fins. .
If you remove the top brace you can push forward the radiator and give enough clearance.

And as mentioned, get the black fan.
The Range Rover P38 fan is a direct fit and easier to find.

Hi All,
new black fan and new clutch installed , very nice . But did not make it out of driveway . After securing metal bracket over radiator , and idling car for a couple of minutes, radiator fluid came out around banjo bolt on on right side. I thought easy, just a little more tightening , but then no resistance…
I stripped something. Banjo bolt has metal shavings on it . New aluminum radiator . Darn .
I did read Vinny’s fix with helicoil etc. but are there any other suggestions ? gina

Well that sucks. Sorry! Helicoil is your best option imho.

Yes, Helicoil will do the job.
Be sure you flush the radiator thoroughly though to remove all the metal shavings.
And always anneal the copper washers before you reuse them.
The other problem is that these copper washers are very thin. You could get a longer banjo bolt and use thicker washers that will seal better. I think @John_John1 makes them.

Yes, John John makes them in Brass with thicker Copper washers and longer shank Top quality. just got a set. My Rad. thred was stripped also. Helicoil did the trick.

Fine thread just doesn’t work well with aluminum. Best would be to fix it with heli-coil or similar thread repair solution. Original bolt thread is BSPP 1/8"-28

And I believe aluminum won’t stand as much torque. Gotta be careful when cranking that banjo bolt in. I think there is info on the internet that will give done guidance about what factor to use when calculating how much to reduce the torque…like maybe use 85% of what is spec in ROM. I did that with mine and then still needed a very little bit more to completely seal