Changing rubber fuel lines on Fuel Rail w/ Injectors 'In-Situ'

Has anyone tried leaving the injectors ‘in-Situ’ and removing and replacing the rubber lines on the rail and then pressing the lines back on the ‘insitu’ injectors…yes the injector seals need to be replaced but thought this might be an easier way to install the lines. Rather than fighting all injectors having to be placed as the process goes along.

Yes Jon, I replaced ALL the rubber fuel lines on my 5.3 a few months ago,and installed a fuel pressure gauge.
Dave. (Without disturbing the injectors.)

(But then you already knew that…)

Hi JW< This is in response to your PM. I decided I wanted a fuel pressure gauge close to my fuel rail, and after reading various posts, chose to place a “T” fitting in the rubber line leading from the fuel rail to the LHS FPR. The line was rock-hard, meaning all the others were, too.I bought a few feet of fuel injection hose, and after removing the assorted vacuum lines and the throttle cable, cut all the short rubber lines connecting the fuel rail to the injectors, as close to center as I could, using a tool I bought for cutting battery cables! A box cutter with a new blade would be ok too, I suppose. I removed the old pieces of hose using a box cutter, shaving the hose off in thin pieces in a, um, sideways fashion, so I would not damage the barbed fittings. Each connection had a dished metal washer which was removed with side-cutters.These washers are for decoration only and can be discarded if you wish. Getting the old pieces of hose off the injectors was more awkward, but I just took my time so nothing was damaged. The injectors, BTW, seemed firmly installed to the degree that I decided that the seals were good. I cut ten pieces of new hose to the same length as the originals, and using liquid soap on the fittings was able to push the hoses on to the rail with not too much trouble. A wipe of soap on the injector barbs, and a little positioning got the fuel rail started. I used a rubber mallet once everything was located correctly, and the fuel rail tapped down into place nicely. The two hoses on the front cylinders were pushed on by hand with some effort.
The lines attached to the FPR’s look like they are crimped, but in fact are not. The metal sleeves again are mostly decoration, and I removed mine using a bench grinder and side cutters. Those rubber lines can be replaced,too,it’s just a push fit. Once the fuel leaves the FPR on “B” bank it should be under very little pressure as it flows through the fuel cooler, so low pressure hose can be used thereon. Installing the gauge meant buying a few generic fittings, and I was surprised to find that the barbs on the normal auto store pieces are not as large as the Jag fittings on the car.
IOW, the hoses are perhaps not as tight as they should be.Rather than have a leak, I went with clamp style fittings for the gauge line. The gauge was attached to the “shelf” on the firewall, using a piece of aluminum with a suitable hole in it. Once all that was done I removed the “A” bank airbox lid, and then replaced the rubber line coming from the firewall, through the funky 3/8 to 5/16 adapter and up to the first FPR. If I ever have to replace the injector seals, I will just remove everything in one assembly. So now I feel safe, hopefully no fires, life is good. I think that covers just about everything!

Every since this replacing fuel lines subject has come up most have said the metal cups are not an important part. I totally disagree as they do serve a purpose. If the fuel hose end is installed with cup and the hose tries to expand the cup prevents it from flaring out. Have changed the fuel lines twice and will always use the cups.
As so far as trying to re[lace the lines without disturbing the injectors, it is much easier IMHO to just remove the entire assembly and do it on a clean work bench.

Hi Don was thinking about you last night as I called the guy in LA with the Petronic Ign, setup on E-bay. I couldn’t understand how the thing works maybe Lockeed or one of the electronic guys will come on and comment…looks like a good thing just couldn’t see where the signal to the Dizzy comes from…Dizzy shaft??? no hall effect?

As to the metal cups on the ends of the fuel rail hoses, that is olde VW engineering and I think it is crucial for protection of those hoses, wouldn’t do without them and they are cheap at the local VW parts house…SNG Barrat sells them for a ridiculous price.Best, JW

Thanks for the reply Dave, I do think the hose cups are put there for a purpose, many discussions on the olde list about them. They are VW engineering as are the injectors. I am going to do your replacement system this time around as I think it is faster than the olde dangle and insert the injectors, etc. I use a soldering iron for removal of the lines on the rail barbs and will use your knife technique on the injector bodies in-situ. The cups are available at VW parts houses cheap…$1@ …saw an advert that was offering them for $35 for 12…Jaguar Parts
Best, JW

Hi JW,I guess that is the value of a"Forum’,- an exchange of ideas The metal dished washers were a PITA to cut the rubber lines below them. I do think the cups make the finished job neater looking, though. Now for a little history- I worked in an industrial environment for close to forty years. Many of the machines in the plant were run using air , lots of pneumatic cylinders. My machines had hydraulic lines, air lines, and fuel lines. The plant storeroom had bins filled with an astonishing array of fittings for every purpose imaginable. Many of these fittings were of the push-on, clamp-less variety. They all came with the metal dished washers, just like the ones on our cars. In the 90’s, the metal washers were phased out and replaced with plastic washers. Much cheaper to produce, of course.Over time I realized that it made no difference whether the fittings I was using had a metal dished washer, or the plastic variety. The integrity of the hose assembly was determined by the pressure the HOSE could withstand, nothing else!I never, ever, encountered a failure caused by either -the switch from metal to a plastic washer, or -the total absence of either!If you search on-line for clamp-less barbed hose connections you will find page after page of fittings equipped with flimsy plastic dished washers, that look pretty, but other than that, add no strength whatever. Metal, or plastic, or nothing at all, isn’t going to change the failure rate of a hose assembly.Ok, having said all that- If you can get the cups cheaply, then by all means have at it, the finished job will certainly look neater and more “finished”. I tried the soldering iron technique, but the iron did not get hot enough to do much good. The past two years of ownership have certainly been interesting for me and I continue to learn . The new site seems manageable, too! At the moment I am making a three stage fast idle configuration using an unused 45 sec. timer,an extra SAV plumbed into the “A” bank airbox, and an unused thermal vacuum switch on the “A” bank water rail, all hooked up to the 3/8 vac. hose from the original SAV. Find out how it works in the spring, when I start the engine again!All the best, Dave.

Thanks for the information on the cups…you said it all with your explanation. On the SAV, others have used Merc. stepper motors, etc. B. Emden one of the greats came up with something else, I just think the simplicity of the AAV is what keeps me there…they just work.

How big is the signature photo for your avatar.?..have been trying to reduce mine down but still too big. will keep trying…I think I just sent you a very naughty picture from one of my chums in OZ. Hope it doesn’t offend you. Best, JW

640x480 I think. My AAV - it had the boil treatment, is about four years old, but doesn’t change the idle speed very much…
All I saw were ladders??? Not easily offended- grew up in the Sixties!

Hi Jon,
Between you and me the new web sight is not user friendly yet as we do not use Facebook ,or Twitter or Google accounts or programs. When logging on had to sing up as though had never used the Jag-Lovers before. Have attached a picture of my car taken back in 2012 in the Arizona desert before I finally found standard Jaguar wheels from a 1995 XJS. Car is running great but still need to do the rear breaks. Thanks for calling about the Petronics ignition system.
Don Franke

Don, thanks for the reply…what year is your machine? The Petronix thing I don’t understand did you?

If you hold a bit I will be glad to sell you one of my new Inboard Vented rotor kits, just about completed at the machine shop. Norm Lutz also adapts a Corvette wheel with a 1/2" spacer and longer studs Ford 1/2 x20 for the wider rims and

has an adapter for the Jag symbol to the wheels. Lokks similar but much bigger contact patch. Will try to find the photos and send to you, best, JW

Gee, what’s wrong with those wheels? I think they look kinda nice!

I’m guessing that’s the later style diff cover with a port for a speedo sensor. Are all the later ones finned? That’s sweet. There were also reports that the diff cover for the XJR-S included some sort of internal baffling that helps prevent oil foaming at sustained high speeds; does this cover have that feature as well?

Hi Kriby,

There are 15 inch rims and hard to find a decent tire for but the main reason there where changed is that they are not hub centric. That and the fact that gold was starting to wear through on the front to the nickel under plating. They stored safely along with a set of RONAL wheel that turned out to be too wide. Those too where not hub centric as promised from RONAL but they have closed shop a long time back here in the USA.
And to DR. Quail my car is a 1987.

Kirby, I thought you may be interested to see that the 15x7 gold wheels are plated inside and out so here is picture with the tire off and a picture of my 16x7 inch wheels from a 1995 XJS

Don:
These were stock on my car. I went one size up and use now the Revolver-style XK8 wheels.
The pictures were in my album on the old JL site, not sure it will show here, but let’s try it:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?id=1428199053

Steve
PS Far more choices for tires in 17". Not to mention that the car looks great with those too…

I changed my hoses and discovered that I needed clamps on the two front curved injector hoses. …if I would touch them they would leak. …they are not a molded hose therefore the angle or curve that they are installed at causes pressure on two places not getting a uniform grip all around the spigots. Just a hint about a possible problem. Dave Scrimger

Interesting. None of mine leak. I clamped my return line and ran full fuel pump pressure as a test.
If this were my car I think I would remove the two front hoses and take a closer look at the barbs. You shouldn’t need clamps, maybe slightly longer hoses than you’re using now.
(Thinking out loud here!)

Yes could be the length. .those hoses are fairly stiff. .but with the small fi clamps it seems to be ok…I 'll probably leave them on…still working on smell in trunk. …will do more in spring. .to cold now. …I am not a dedicated mechanic…don’t like to heat the carriage house up for short times.