The threaded holes on the top are not
opening in the radiator for the bleeder bolt and the banjo bolt.
Lemme get this straight: The threaded holes are THERE, but they don’t
open up into the header tanks? That not only makes no sense, you would
think it’d also make it much harder to tap those holes! Just the same, it
wouldn’t seem difficult to just drill the holes on through. And it might be
possible that this was done deliberately, giving the buyer the option of drilling
the holes through or leaving them blanked off and omitting the air purge
system in entirety.
Those hole are a really odd thread, British Standard Pipe - Parallel. IIRC, it
comes out to something close to 19 thread per inch. Any chance at all they
tapped them to the correct thread?
I had
to spend a lot of time pouring antifreeze slowly, warming up the
engines, then cool down, then pour in more antifreeze trying to get
all the air out.
Yeah, I woulda drilled the bleed hole out. And I recommend a cleanout fitting
at the high point in the heater hose to help get air out of that loop.
The existing thin piping on the top of the radiator,
which is acting as a bypass, I believe, you can’t use any of it…
It’s not a bypass, it’s an air purge. Too bad you can’t use it.
The
metal frame with the fan openings doesn’t not line up to bolt back on
so I had to use plastic straps for now.
Sounds like more drilling!
My opinion, this Chinese
radiator isn’t worth the frustration. There hasn’t to be better
options.
Is this rad a single-pass or a 1-1/2 pass like the OEM? And yeah, there
probably are better options, but they’re also more expensive, and they STILL
involve fiddling to make right. It’s the nature of the beast, I’m afraid.
– Kirbert