My XJ6 s2 has developed clunking from the front sub frame area which occurs when driving on rough roads also a sort of boinging springy sound On a smooth road it’s a dream but this clunking is driving me nuts, so many bushes down there , any ideas to help me get to it? Thanks
if a +40-year-old series XJ starts to clunk or boing you’re set for a complete overhaul of next to all bushings, ball joints etc., I’m afraid. It’s not rocket science, nor are parts expensive, but it is a lot. Once you’re done, you may expect a modern, yet more refined ride, clean braking, no disturbance in the steering and no noises.
To begin with you might get the car on a kind of suspension and shock tester as our MOT uses. They can show you exactly which bushing is shot to which extent.
Upon inspection I’d slice the job, start with the most urgent parts and the ones that don’t require you to open the steering. These things are mostly “with-a-lift-and-a-good-friend” Saturday afternoon jobs, but you might book in a couple of Saturdays.
75 XJ6L 4.2 auto (UK spec)
Hmmm Thanks that’s what I feared,
May be time to bite the bullet and buy a big kit of
Bushes for front sub frame and do the lot,
Still a couple if quick things to check:
A) the upper foam bushes on the front shocks?
B) the bushes on the front sway bar?
Thanks a good way to start I guess!
Any thoughts on Poly bushes against regular rubber?
I agree with Jochen, time to freshen up the front suspension. I completely rebuilt my S3 and there was only one part of it that was almost a show-stopper. That was the lower wishbone inner pivot rod, it can be rusted in place and a night mare to get out. The others are pretty straight-forward and with a couple of tools and some time, should not be a big issue. I suggest you get a shop manual that covers your car, almost a necessity in my opinion.
I used poly bushes in all the joints, because I like a firm, precise ride. I have read many posts that say the famous Jaguar ride will go away by using poly.
Dear Dave , Many thanks for your input , I will try and source a front end pack of poly bushes, and talk to my local Jag boys who I think I will entrust with the job,
My car had front and rear sub frames rebuilt almost thirty years ago but was then laid up for 25 years in dry storage so now on the road I fear that the original bushes have deteriorated , and trying to replace a bush here and there is the wrong approach.
Again my thanks !
Could be any of the following (as in any other car):
Upper and lower Ball joints
Steering rack mounts
Once I hade a rattle that was coming from the upper steering column lower bearing.
Mine has clunked and boinked for several years, untill recently.
I replaced the uppermost shock bushing, but the boinking and clunking didn’t stop.
So a few weeks ago, I bought 6 new shocks and all of the foam shock bushings (new Monroe’s come with rubber bushing, but i don’t like them). Hence, no more clunking and boinking, road handling superb, speed bumps are now taken without any problems at speed. Should have done it years ago…
Takes a little while to figure out how to change the shocks, you need a spring compressor, but it’s worth it…
You need 2 Monroe 43027 front shocks and 4 Monroe 43013 rear shocks. ( I paid € 248.18 for the six shocks).
The foam bushing are available at small change from SNG Barratt’s…
Yes, forgot to mention that one.
I second your starting point, Pekka - prime suspects and easily verified as faulty…
However, it may not be the only ones - though a PO may have done some work before…
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)
Don’t forget the subframe mounts. I had a torn one, and it resulted in a clunk when backing out of my garage. It sounded metallic to me, hard to believe it came from a rubber joint.
Surprisingly enough, all the other bushings, rubbers, mounts etc are original and in excellent condition. Didn’t need to change a single one.
I bought a complete kit in rubber from SNG and fitted every one to our Series 1. The only rubbers that were sound were the lower control arm bushes. Weathered on the edges but solid and strong internally. This was by far the biggest piece of work which requires removing the very long lower control bolts and the road spring - not for the faint hearted.
If I ever did another I would check this area carefully with a view to not changing these parts. I replaced the long bolts as I had bought them but the originals were still serviceable. FWIW. Paul.
Guys you are all brilliant !
I will take onboard your advice and look at shocks as well as rubber, probably do the front end this year and leave the back sub frame till 22 as it is at present quiet !
Thanks so much for all your advice
Best to you all
Good point !
When you just replace the shocks, you don’t need to removed the subframe. Just a decent car lift and a support. (And some wrenches, castor oil etc…)…