Julian I have just been through this same problem with my mk 2. You obviously have some kind of clutch drag issue, and air in the system needs to be removed if that is causing insufficient movement. I made a lever and removed the slave to prove that my issue was the clutch and not the hydraulics. Once I proved beyond doubt that it was the clutch I dropped then engine and box etc etc. Upon inspection it was obvious from inspecting the driven plate that the clutch was not fully disengaging. Mine was manufactured by AP. I replaced the complete clutch assembly and the problem was resolved. Since then I have read many articles on line including some fro dealers that there is/was a faulty batch of clutches on the market.
Best regards
Ditto. …
Julian the picture you show is definately a hydrostatic cylinder.
Guys,
Here is the temporary fitting that I realised today : longer rod (5") and return spring.
I bled the circuit, according to the method described in the manual.
For the moment, the internal spring is still in the slave cylinder body.
Result is not too bad but could surely be better…
Julian
Your return spring attachment appears less than ideal to me. I would put the end of the spring around/under the “head” end of the pin, and put the clip on the end opposite the spring. I think the arrangement you have will cause the spring to wear through the end of the clip, and eventually allow the spring to fall off. On mine, the spring “bracket” at the slave cylinder bolt is pointing down, or even forward, to put more tension on the spring.
With a proper, strong enough, external return spring, the internal spring causes no harm. But it is “fighting” the external spring, effectively reducing its tension some.
Regards,
Ray L.
Ray,
I changed the return spring attachment to a stronger one. Same thing for the return spring itself.
Then, I made a road test. During the first miles, no problem. But the more I drove, the less I could engage the gears !!! Come back home has been a hell !
Could it be possible to have an air entrance anywhere without observe any liquid leak ?!? Because if there is an air entrance, it could explain the fact that the more I press the clutch pedal, the more I make some air enter into the circuit, and so the less the clutch system is efficient…
First time that I’m so in trouble with an hydraulic clutch !!
Thanks for your advices or experiences
Julian
Are you near Angers or Le Mans Julian?
Peter B.
Hello Peter,
I’m at 200 kms from Le Mans et 350 from Angers but, do you really think that’s the reason why I can not engage my gears ?!? 
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I lack the patience (and confidence) to use the drip method, instead I use a pressure bleeder made from a bicycle tire tube:
The photo shows a brake reservoir but same approach for the clutch. Seems to drive all the air out even with the bleeder in the lower position.
Some bleed with the slave piston extended then abruptly push it home to get the last bit of air, I have not had to do that.
I did have to go with a longer push rod (non-hydrostatic slave) which was odd as I did not change the slave, just the clutch and TOB. My spring was not pulling quite enough either so I positioned the anchor to apply a bit of pre-load on the spring (something you might consider based on your photo):
The paint marks are to help me see at a glance if the anchor has moved (it hasn’t).
I also put a daub of paint on the edge of the carbon disc so I can check for wear each year:
An annual photograph lets me see any change and estimate the rate of wear (possibly I am overly cautious here as the TOB on the car when it came to me was about as thick as a dime).
I have a 1970 S2 Roadster and i am having an odd clutch problem. I recently had the clutch replaced on my car and the clutch seems to be working fine except that there is now a strange intermittent buzzing noise while driving, which seems to stop when I gently press my foot on the clutch. Took it back to the mechanic and he said I needed to replace the rod to the slave cylinder to allow more adjustment. This was done but the noise continues. The pedal seems to have a little less play than before. I have read the posts about 1/8 to 1/16 play but have not checked the play yet. I have read the posts about the external spring. Could this be the problem? Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcome.
Welcome to the J-L Forum!
Are you saying your does not have an external spring? If so, I would add one as I think a 70 S2 would have had one originally.
Mine (a 71 S2) came to me w/o the spring…
…it seemed to work okay but I added one anyway to be sure I got the benefit of the float.
Note that I had to flip the clevis pin to be able to use the groove for the spring.
I don’t know that will change your noise but seems like the first thing to do is set it up as designed.
I was the OP here, welcome to the forum.
I bought my car with a bad clutch. Before I changed the clutch and throw out bearing, the bearing would rattle on the pressure plate’s mating surface. It sounded quite loud because it was worn to the point that it was metal to metal (post 16) as the carbon block had worn off. This my be it. If the carbon block is in good shape I’d look elsewhere as these rarely make rattling noise.
You can see the carbon block through the hole in the bell (post 49).
Besides a defective pressure plate air in the lines or incorrect adjustment there are two other conditions can cause difficult shift engagement, too tight of a fit on the pilot bushing causing the bushing to drive the input shaft and a clutch disc that is not sliding freely on the input shaft splines causing the disc not to move slightly away from the flywheel the fixed position surface.
In this case neither one likely due to the recent clutch replacement. Before installation I always check the disc hub/shaft spline fit as well as the pilot bushing/bearing.
Good afternoon Mitchell,
I tried to watch your Clutch fork travel video from the link in the forum post, but it says no longer available. Do you by chance have that video clip still? Having a tough time with my new clutch and Hydraulics after converting from a Automatic Transmission on my S1 2+2.
I realize that all you’ve asked for is a video, but,there is quite a number of things that could be going wrong with your set up, and we may be able to help you, but you need to post more details of the issues you are having. A photo of the slave cylinder, pushrod, and position of the fork end would be helpful.
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You sure they put the little bronze bushing back in the flywheel…??