I thought I’d revive this thread as I noticed I have the same problem as the original poster: the clutch pedal shaft moves horizontally towards the outside of the car – but only about 0.1". Pulling everything apart, I found the two washers to be missing on each end of the spring (XK120 LHD OTS car) and the oil holes on both the clutch pedal arm base and clutch shaft firmly plugged up. Side note: does anyone ever oil these?? Anyway, I searched the inside of the chassis box section with a coat hanger wire and magnet and came up empty for the washers. Also, there was only one o-ring: the outside one. I’ve already placed an order for these small sundry parts, but the big question is this:
Can I save the clutch pedal shaft for reuse? There’s wear on the pedal arm end from where it was starting to bear against the bearing hole opening in the chassis box section. Looks to be about 3/32" in depth (sorry Metric-literate readers). Also another shallower one from the spring wearing in to the shaft – but it’s minor. I’d like to reuse it because replacements are semi-pricey and a check of all the states-side usuals shows it to be currently out of stock.
On another side note, I don’t think I have any other problems with the clutch mechanism – at this time. The angle of the arm protruding from the bell housing is just like in Rob’s photos so, hopefully all is still well with the throw-out bearing shaft internals. I did notice that someone brazed the external arm on the throw-out bearing shaft (this is the arm on the outside of the bell housing) so, obviously there was an issue once before with this whole assembly.
In order to save the clutch pedal shaft I’m thinking of building up the worn area(s) in question via my MIG welder with inert gas shielding, running as fat of a bead as possible on its highest setting (though this welder was only made for, at most, running a bead on metal no more than 1/4" thick). I’d follow this up by chucking the shaft on my lathe using a 4-jaw and dial indicating it to within 0.001" runout. Finish by turning the welded area down to the outside diameter of the unworn parent metal.
Does this sound do-able or am I wasting my time by introducing possible warpage of the shaft along with possible inadequate weld penetration by filling the worn divoted spots?
Here are two pictures of the shaft in question after a light emery cloth cleaning:
Addendum: I so wish this Rube Goldberg set-up could have been made more simple like the slave cylinder assembly I once had on a long departed MGA…