Cold running/stalling issue

So, your ignition is good.
Injectors are serviced.
Your TPS is new.
The Coolant Temp Sensor is new.
Next check should be the Fuel pressure regulator as Kirbert suggested. Check if it’s vacuum line is connected, and has vacuum, and if it’s wet or smells of fuel (leaking diaphragm).
Your pressure should vary with vacuum input.
Next check would be that all sensors, and vacuum, actually reach the ECU.
If all check OK then most probably the ECU is at fault.

As for fuel press, my manual says the later FI does use a constant fuel press, and varies the injector pulse, unlike the earlier FI that does indeed vary the pressure. My regulators are not leaking fuel, and vacuum lines are good. I’m not sure how to check each sensor to the ECU, but the fact it was running OK before with no other changes, in a short time, to me does seem to point to the ECU. I have it out now, and with the number code will start looking for a repair or replacement, and report back.
Thanks everyone!

The D Jetronic ran a constant pressure relative to atmosphere. The Digital P runs a constant pressure relative to manifold pressure, which means the fuel pressure varies with vacuum. That’s why the FPR’s have vacuum lines to them.

OK; which system would my '85 HE have?

That would be the Digital P.

Resolved! Here’s the rest of my story. Having checked or replaced everything in the fuel delivery system except the ECU, I was able to borrow a know good computer and try that. Still wouldn’t start. So put my ECU back in and started reading up on the ignition system in another section of this forum. Decided to check the spark one more time, but this time I cranked it over about 20 sec. instead of the 2 or 3 sec. I’d done earlier. I got a few sec. of good spark, no spark for several sec. and another sec. or so of spark, then no spark. So it’s ignition! Having read about all the issues with the distributor, I decided to start with that. Turns out the carbon tip in the cap was gone, and the cap and rotor were burned from the arcing there. I removed the distributor, and discovered that the vacuum advance was totally shot, and the centrifugal advance was partially frozen, as this forum said they would. I cleaned everything up lubed the centrifugal advance, put on a new vacuum advance, checked all the wires were good and reinstalled with a new cap and rotor.
Of interest, I noticed that there are two different springs in the centrifugal advance; a “lite” spring, and a “heavy” spring. This is the way the factory did it, but the heavy spring was stretched out to the point that the slack was only taken up when the weights were at the end of their travel, so it was doing nothing. Not wanting to leave it that way, I took the springs out of an early Chevy 350 distributor I had from another project. These are slightly liter that the one “lite” spring, but together were stronger. They were also the exact correct length, so that gave me the tension I thought it needed. While I was working on this, I’d removed the main coil for more working room and noticed that a pool of oil formed where it was lying on my work bench, so I replaced it too. All spark plugs came out, looked nearly new, so cleaned them, set the gaps and reinstalled them. When done the engine started immediately, and runs great; probably better that it has for years! I’ve driven it around and taken it on a 200 mile road trip to check it out; it runs cool, revs readily, and does not ping, so think I’m done!
All this time, it was a slowly failing main coil! I hope this thread helps others who may find themselves with a similar situation. Also thank you everyone who helped me on this journey! Cheers!

It runs, but you have screwed up the ignition advance curve. The heavy spring is not supposed to engage until near full advance; that’s how the curve flattens out above a particular RPM.

Not that they were correct to begin with. The springs often get stretched when someone is trying to get the rotor carrier off. Short of actually sending the distributor off to a distributor shop for re-curving, I usually suggest a pair of pliers be used to compress the heavy spring to the point where the coils stack up. It won’t stay there, but it results in the spring being a useful length. Hope that the lighter spring is undamaged, likely because it can be stretched a lot farther than the heavy spring without being damaged. Reassemble and check the timing at 3000 rpm per spec.

Good idea to check the timing at higher RPM. I’ll do that. Thanks