I pressed in the replacements. You can see them lying next to the arms. At the point I took the photo I wasn’t sure what way they went in.
IIRC there are a couple of different iterations of the link. Mine had removable bushes.
I’ve used the Greenstuff pads a lot. Work well but do tend to squeal.
Car and engine?
…
Split pins in the castellated nuts? Which shouldn’t be there anyway yet, unless you have poly bushes?
Which means “tighten nuts only at full car load, .i.e. with car on wheels”
Missing ? Brake cover plates ?
No, they’re clearly visible up in the air…
Close, but no banana.
Indeed I have put the split pins in, trusting my well lubed poly bushes to cope with landfall.
Here’s my omission:
You’re nutless!!!
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RHS safety wire pulling the wrong way? It‘ll do fine but…
Yes, dammit, you’re right there too! I hadn’t noticed until you pointed it out.
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Damn had to expand the pic on the iPad a fair way to look at that, well done David.
An update. I got it all back together and drove it prior to getting a wheel alignment done.
The steering was vague but that didn’t worry me as I didn’t have the toe in set accurately.
The good news was that the front suspension is much better; firmer and not bouncy like before.
However the steering was very heavy; much worse than before.
When I went to pick the car up after the wheel alignment they had removed the new 1" anti sway bar. It had been impinging on the adjustable tie rod joining the steering idler and the steering arm on the box.
At this point I’m not sure whether I have reassembled the tie rod incorrectly, or whether the new bar is not the right shape.
I’m going to put the stock 5/8" bar back on on the weekend, and see what the clearance is like. It may be that with the stronger springs it will be adequate.
Watch this space.
Hmm for a different car?
Waiting for a reply from HBE.
Fobbed off…
So on the one hand they have made hundreds and never had a problem, yet on the other hand “just about every vehicle will require some shimming”.
*Hi Andrew,
The HBE uprated front ARB is of greater diameter than the original such that torsional stiffness is increased. The increased bar diameter means that replicating the original bends is difficult, hence the different profile of the bends compared to an original bar.
The space around the front suspension/steering of a Mk2 is always tight, and when fitting the HBE uprated front ARB, the single greatest issue is clearance. Included with the front bar was a copy of our fitting guidelines, also attached to this email, which points out clearance can be problematic, and that clearance must be tested through the full articulation of the steering and suspension movement, and this is best done with the front springs removed.
Most clearance issues involve power steering apparatus and extended sumps, but clearance must always be checked at the time of fitting as over the years of production, Jaguar changed the specification of many components, and vehicles have often since been fitted with after market components, all of which can affect ARB clearance.
Some vehicles have had the alloy spacer blocks removed from the front ARB pivot strap mountings, some also have the pivot bush keeper plates missing, all of which cause uprated ARB clearance issues.
Just about every vehicle will require some shimming of the ARB pivot strap mountings when fitting an uprated ARB, some require more packing from the chassis, others less.
We only produce one design of uprated front ARB for the Mk2 Jaguar, and in the last 10 years we have supplied hundreds of them and all have been fitted without clearance issues after shimming, although some have had minimal clearance from after market extended sumps and power steering hoses.
Hope this helps,
Kind regards,
Andrea.
*
I made many sway bars, out of Stressproof: I call BS, towards the maker.
Typical.
and my reply…
The car has a steel sump and does not have power steering.
*The bar has been fitted with the original standard links and the aluminium spacers. *
There are no aftermarket components and the car is an early model (1960) so is not likely to have altered spec from the original.
I followed the instructions, which were in the packaging with the bar.
Nevertheless it does not fit, whereas the standard bar clears by 2”.
The pictures I sent you clearly show that the bar is quite different in shape from the standard one.
Could you please get one of your technical people to look at the pictures and suggest how I can get the bar to fit? Particularly recommendations for shimming; what thickness, material etc.
Cheers.
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That’s nowhere near to the original bar, I agree with the BS claim.
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