Connector block MKIV

Hi Might be a simple question, but what does the Lucas connector block look like, and what is the lay out and function in the day ( 37802/A)
Is it just a terminal block ?


Worcester Classic has them, part E86, £26. Mounted on the inside of the right front wing towards the front. You should find two holes for set screws. They are the same for Mk Vs.

Hi Thanks for that Pete, I may have one of these somewhere, I was more interested in what it looked like and what function it serves, if its just a terminal block, what terminates there and why is it used, I also need a 6 terminal junction box for the Manette wiring, which I think attaches to the steering box so will have to make a bracket any pictures would be good


How old is your car? Mine is 1946 and has the round cap junction box on the steering box. I used a land rover part

I’ll take a picture of one later today. If you have an old one, you need to inspect it closely for internal damage. One of my colleagues couldn’t find out why the headlamp on one side flashed instead of the flasher lamp. One of the internal separators was missing.

Thanks 1948 Nov

It will be the rectangular one. Prior models had the circular one mounted on the the steering box with a simple bracket. They are mounted on the steering box or nearby on the inside of the wing to corrale the column wiring. From there the main harness sections connect to distribute to the respective components.

I’ll do photos of both types.

I think you mean this Lucas 37082/A terminal block. It can accept 32 bullet end connectors.

My LHD Mark V has it on the left inner fender. A lot of the turn signal wiring is plugged in there.

Here is the circular one on my '38 SS steering box, which has 6 screw terminal sockets.

There is also one in the boot.

Thanks Rob, that saved me finding mine.
The comment I made about needing to ensure no damage can be seen. The groove in each socket locks into the centre ribbing to stop it sliding out when a bullet is pushed in. The bakerlite dividering walls are very important as they ensure insulated separation exists between adjoining sockets/circuits. If there is breakage, get a new one.

Thanks both, that clears it up, I was not sure which one I needed but seeing as I have no junction box on the car and no bracket on the steering tube I will order onse of the square one from Worcester

I am now working on the wiring for the headlamps, I have two dipping head lamps with solenoids in place and have converted the headlight bulbs to LEDs, the solenoids work well and all is ready to add new wiring when I figure it all out, the one thing that I don’t understand yet is how the solenoids are wired, at the moment the solenoids pull the internal rod back into the body, after I extend them, it seems to me this should be the other way round IE the bar should push out to dip the head light
anybody got any simple wiring diagrams ?

Here is the connector block on my Mark V.

The headlight dipper solenoid roller pushes out to angle the reflector, while the other end pulls in to operate the switches.

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Thanks Rob
Looks like I will have to study the wiring diagram to understand how to make the rod in the solenoid extend and retract

Here is a clean and clear picture of the labelling on two of my solenoids. It is often unreadable after all these years. Note that one has ‘A1’ and the other has ‘+’. I don’t understand why it is ‘+’, unless it is for a neg earth circuit and simply indicating the principle power connection. I thought solenoids were not polarity dependent,
but I might be wrong. The other is the letter ‘R’ on the terminal beside the ‘A1’. A jumper lead is needed between these two to connect power to the solenoid. But what does the ‘R’ mean? Resistance?

The ‘A1’ is the initial power supply, cable 14, and fires up the bulb via the light switch through the ‘H’ fuse, and requires a supply lead to the bulb from here.

The ‘DIP’ terminal is connected from the dip switch, cable 7, and activates the secondary winding in the solenoid through the local fuse. As I understand it, the solenoid gets a bit of a punch to dip, but once it is stroked, the power reduces to a holding current. I don’t know how that works but you can see ‘contacts’ written in the diagram on the solenoid. The solenoid is held in the retracted position by the reflector return spring.

The original dipping ‘one light off’ in the original configuration has to surely be illegal today everywhere and I think it was gone by 1950-ish in the UK. Therefore, ignore the ‘LAMP’ terminal as you don’t need to use the ‘O/S LAMP’ circuit.

Pointed fuses of the standard Lucas pattern are rare and the difficulty is that the holders are dished accordingly and the only alternative I’ve found is the old ceramic type, and they happen to be the same length of about 1". The fuses for these dip circuits are the smallest of the Lucas type and I believe they are only 12 amps.

I think I have this description correct but I haven’t tested it yet, so please comment. For bench testing I just set up two 6v lantern batteries in series.

Thanks for the comprehensive description and photos, this has made things a lot easer to understand, I am in a position to bench test, will post if all works
Much appreciated