Here is a long form article about my experience with the Monocouque Restorations “kit” to convert to enclosed headlights. Enjoy!
I also installed the MM kit and very happy with it. One issue I had on a open bonnet, which may have been subject to some accident and replaced with the open headlights,) was that the opening was not the right shape. Luckily I had an old set of undamaged buckets which I used to form the opening on the center section and the wings. Once formed I welded in the mods to accept the glass.
Great article. I am collecting the parts for the same process. I just need the bulkhead panels now.
i was intrigued by your faith in JB weld. Is it that good? I would be interested in the longevity of the anchor nuts
Epoxies and panel adhesives is a ten page topic at least. Body shops have been sued for using the wrong type of structure adhesive. Also, some 3M and other brands (like Lord) have some adhesives that will take paint (don’t stay gooey on the surface), some that play God save the Queen when applied, etc. Proper information on these is lacking as it often isn’t really published and is supposed to be communicated by professional sales reps - who often are dumb as bricks. Some seem prone to shadow marks in the finished panel (you can see the join due to expansion coefficient issues and sink out). Most do attach the two parts together quite well, however. JB has been around a long time and it’s easy to find guys who have used it for everything. I have some I ran in the rolled edge to the stiffening wire in order to straighten an edge out which had a slight bow. It worked. Have 3M and Lord Fusor in various, non structure spots. Nothing like a weld if you want to be sure. Used lots of epoxies as a kid working at GE Medical - all 3M stuff, industrial. I always worry about JB and expansion/contraction and go with the seemingly more pliable stuff, but only if the shadow issue isn’t a concern. Not an exact science, but study the joint and imagine how much of an issue it would be if the parts reacted to temperature differences and twisting.
Regarding adhesives, it was belts and suspenders. I wouldn’t have trusted the JBWeld alone but with the plug welds, I’m pretty sure its not going to go anywhere. Fortunately, the edge between the old and new is under the gasket so even if there is some cracking, it won’t be visible.
Chuck notes in his blog that MM butt welds the pieces in. Man, that’s a whole nother level above my skill set!
Nice article. I converted my series 3 during the restoration (well I had the body shop do the work…) and love the results. Not cheap but I had some rust on the open sugar scoops anyway…