Cool is as Cool Can Afford

After research here and other forums I still have some questions.
(know that I have upgraded the blower motor to the Grainger version, converted to 134 and the system has been flushed and kept clean, compressor kept in oil, along the way, [multi-speed switch & clutch working pretty well, for an old girl], but physics doesn’t change much)
As bonnet is off for access and engine/trans coming out for even more access- I currently have the original condenser off the rad and have done some cleaning in/out:
I am thinking about replacing the condenser with a “modern” version- is there a similar unit that will tag onto the existing hoses (replaced them both not long ago, ergo, hoping to salvage [on left side of condenser, from drivers seat]) and space in front of the rad? (note here that I am hoping to just clean in/out the original evaporator) I don’t mind a universal type condenser if it is somewhat in the realm of mounting ease and, more so, there is an efficiency gain. Losing a couple of pounds so far forward would be a nice gain, too.
Leaning toward Sanden (5H14?) compressor (currently upright/vertical Tecumseh)- can I, or do I need to use the original clutch? Pulley config tips appreciated.
I see various adapter/mounting brackets- is it the one (see on ebay, etc…) that is a flat plate with “ears”?
Current thots on expansion valve? Clean/Replace? Where to find sturdy part?
(dryer is an easy replacement)
Lastly- long term results input from those that have cobbled together similar setups (don’t want to buy a kit, if I don’t have to).
Thanks much,
Huff 69 2+2

I cannot help you with Jaguar specifics, however, I have done plenty of Vettes, so here is what I have gleaned.

A/C systems are designed around the refrigerants.

Switching from R12 to R134A, you lose about 15-20% efficiency. If the system has ANY R12 oil, even worse, so unless you got ALL the old system out of compressor, etc., it will also corrode.

R134A needs a parallel flow condenser, not the old serpentine style. It also requires an orifice tube, and the hoses are different. R134A molecules are smaller, and R12 hoses leak R134A.

Sandens are great units.

I switched my 81 to R134A, and it sucked. I switched back. Cools at 40*.

I would contact Classic Air. They make retrofit kits for almost any car.

My 2 cents.

BTW- I feel no great urge to convert to o-ring style connections, albeit willing to, at new connection points for upgraded condenser, for adapters to existing setup, retaining old(er) style conns at original style hoses.
In other words, am willing to live in a “hybrid” state, to save OEM style hoses.

So as to be able to call-out or discuss the fittings intelligently in fishing for a new/modern condenser, if I have to makeup (2) lengths of “adapter” hose to bridge to a new condenser - I know the female part of the naming convention…anybody out there can direct me as to what to call these AC hose ends? What style/type/size, etc…are they low and hi pressure or both high/low? (sorry about the crude measure and parallax)

Hi Huff. I converted my car’s AC system to R134 and it works just fine with the original condenser. It has the additional advantages of being compatible with the existing hose fittings and, of course, fits the factory mounting point perfectly. You’ll never notice losing a couple of pounds from that point onthe car.

I installed a Sanden 508 on my old 2+2. It came with the clutch and pulley. New Sanden compressors come in a variety of pulley configurations. Just choose the one that best fits your application. I kept the Tecumseh compressor on my current FHC. I’m quite satisfied with its performance.

There is an adapter for installing the Sanden in place of the Tecumseh. Your description of a “flat plate with ears” sounds about right.

Thanks much for all the input(s). This is a “side” project after the block gets to the machine shop, in the next couple of months.
Thanks again