I’m very close to having every electrical item on my 67 OTS working. All that remains is the clock, fixing one of the horns (the high note unit) and getting the ignition light to work properly.
The original 3AW never worked in my ownership - it had a missing terminal. So I bought the SSAWP from Coolcat, having been very satisfied with other products like the Otter switch replacement and the oil filter conversion.
However, it stays lit all the time even after the engine is running, with a fully charged battery and even at 1800 RPM and above. Here’s what I’ve done for troubleshooting:
checked all the wires per SSAWP instructions for correct connection.
checked alternator voltage from the AL terminal - 7.3-7.5 volts, as the factory manual and Lucas factory 3AW troubleshooting diagrams (reprinted in the current Moss/XKs catalog XKE-20.)
I took the alternator to a specialty repair shop that seems to be well-regarded around here. Has piles of alternators from all eras, makes and models stacked there. After he checked it, he told me my alternator (the OEM 11AC) is fine. I see no weirdness with voltage output and the ammeter readings are what I’d expect.
bypassed the AL wire and connected the alternator AL terminal direct to the corresponding SSAWP terminal. Still lit when engine is running. (measured voltage before hooking it to the SSAWP, it was the desired ~7.5 volts.)
I presume that the SSAWP detects the voltage from the AL line and breaks the connect to ground, extinguishing the light when running. What might I have wrong here, or could the SSAWP have a problem?
I also have an 11AC and Mike’s SSAWP. It has always worked fine. Your steps in testing the car, the alternator and the unit seem fairly exhaustive to me.
Since it is, literally, a back box - anything is possible in there.Perhaps your next step is to directly contact Mike and see what his experience is with this.
BTW - I’m thinking that needs to be AC volts (which perhaps it is).
So the question is, why are you using an SS3AWP? You have a negative ground car, the SS3AWP is for positive ground. You can call and I’ll walk you through it.
Because I’m an idiot. I must have ordered the AWP not seeing that it was for positive ground. Today on the website, I don’t even see how one can order an AWP.
But back in November of 2018 it must have been possible and I did so not noticing it was for positive ground. It never even crossed my mind that the 3AW was being used before the switch to negative ground.
If the AWP can be used for negative ground easily I’ll call. I don’t mind ordering the proper part to correct a mistake I made. This error surprises me even though my memory is addled post-stroke. If it hasn’t been damaged by my misapplication perhaps I can sell it on.
BTW the manuals make no indication of checking AC voltage, but I do recall (as far as my feeble memory is trustworthy) a recent thread saying that a certain level of AC voltage from the AL terminal indicated a potential diode failure. That’s what prompted me to take it into the repair shop. But the alternator checked out.
You NORMALLY have AC voltage at the AL lead, because it connects to a stator winding, before the diode array. But even the B+ lead (after the diodes) will have a bit of AC ripple.
Drop me an e-mail, or at least your name, and I’ll straighten this out for you.
Must say I felt so elated so unbelievably mesmerized so so, well just so dam good . the day all of the electrical system functioned perfectly . I mean every last light bulb lights when it is suposed to. Its really neat to sit in the car in the dark and just enjoy those little dash lights like stars on the sky
You have to have the hand brake light Working. Its the all is a go launch light. I treasure all the lights because none worked when I first purchased the E
Even though I am not the best with electrical things I do all I can to keep it all working properly on the E. This way if I am out at cars and coffee or some place and some one starts bad mouthing Jaguar electrics and reliability I can say…hey guy, take a look, its 52 years old and everything still works even the clock. (Same with my Vega and its notorious aluminium engine)
To close this thread, with the great support from Michael Frank, all works as it should. Fully functioning ignition light that extinguishes when the engine is running. Onto the non-functioning high note horn now. Thanks!
So I bought the SSAWP from Coolcat, having been very satisfied with other products like the Otter switch replacement and the oil filter conversion.