Correct shift lever for Tremec Driven Man conversion

Hi Folks,

I had the gearbox out before winter to have it repaired, and now the shift lever has been misplaced.

It was a poor home-made one anyway.

Does anyone know the correct lever for this?

I see there are many listed on Summit Racing, or different lengths and bends.



The hole distance is hopefully the same as the “standard” for many shift levers. I used a little short straight shifter from Summit for my T5. This post has a link and a pic:

Bob, thanks for the speedy reply.

When looking at Summit site, I didn’t see the lever you got, but when I searched it, it came up.

I have ordered it.

That’s the last bit I need to put this gearbox back.



1 Like


I’m moving ahead slowly. The gearbox is back in, with new hydraulic release bearing.

Now I have an issue with the master cylinder. With help from friends, we tried to bleed the pipes. We got the air out. But it takes a few pumps of the pedal to get the bearing to release. After these few pumps, and the pedal held down, the clutch remains released for at least a minute. To test for release, the prop shaft was tuned by hand while in gear. But then, if the pedal is released from the floor, the next stroke has no pressure. It seems to hold built up pressure, but the pressure instantly disappears on the next stroke.
I hope I’ve explained this okay.
Before ordering a new master CAC8091, I thought I’d see what’s going on inside.
The pictures show the black cast master that was in there, that came with the Keisler kit, and the alloy one is an old Jag one.
I don’t understand how the cast one works. There’s no return spring, and it has a small valve on the tip that seems to vent fluid from the tip to the middle of the piston. The valve seems to be closed under pressure, and open during release stroke.
Reading older posts, folks have said they prefer the Jag type.
I’ll likely buy a new Jag one, but I’d like to know if anyone has a comment.

Jag one working fine for me. They are (or at least were) cheap enough that I’d just get a new one to eliminate as a possibility.

I assume you indicated the bell housing to be centered to the crank before final trans installation?


Getting to the pointy end of a manual conversion. Gearbox back in for a second time. Clutch disc that came with Driven Man kit via Moss Motors was junk. Huge slop on input splines. Bought better centerforce clutch disc. Drove 300 miles, now I think something has broken in the Sachs pressure plate assembly that came with kit. Clutch slips above 2k rpm in any gear at will. Looking at a centerforce dual friction kit ~$450. Also, clutch master that came with kit was too tall. Ordered Tilton master from Summit. B*tch to bleed. Takes about 4 iterations and various methods including removing master and rotating it for that last bubble to rise. Hydramax slave pumps up its bubble, but the highest point is not the reservoir… Will post a pic of my new ski slope from Myrtle.

Switch on clutch pedal for cruise disengage.

Regarding shifter connection. This is on a Tremec TKX. Shown in pic is ~2" alu connector. Ended up shortening this to ~1".

Actually, that is the shortened position before chopping off the extra 1"

@Rob. Hopefully something there helps you. Let us know when you’re out there laying down 11s!