Coupe rear window install - solo - but I've got a snag!

I finally got around to removing the rear window. My only other experience installing a window was when my dad and I put a new windshield in my 911 using the string technique.

My dad is long gone so last Saturday my girlfriend and I tried to use the string technique to install back window. The inside rubber lip is just too beefy for the string to work from the inside. I’d read on this site about using the string but pulling the outside lip up. The outside lip is very flexible. Well that was a dead end. We just couldn’t hold the glass, thread in the defrost wires, line up the seal, etc. I need a new method so back to searching this site. I found a thread from 2006 where the poster put the window in by prying the inside lip in. He also mentioned not using any soap. I thought I give that a try but I came up with something that I think is very easy.

So here’s how I did it solo.

1 - Put the rubber seal on the glass

2 - Lay the glass with the seal on top of the window opening

3 - Spray plenty of soapy water on the rubber seal.

3 - Get inside the car and thread the defrost wires into their holes. You’ll need to wrangle with the glass a bit to do this but be gentle.

Remember - the rubber seal hates you and will do anything it can to jump off the glass.

4 - You need to get the bottom seal started first and it’s tricky. I found that the weight of glass kept pushing it into the car making it impossible to get the seal started. So here’s the trick I used. Someone posted something about using glass suction cup things to hold the trim in place so I ordered them months ago. I simply put two of those on the bottom edge of the glass and on the top edge to keep the glass from dropping down. Just stick them down and adjust the wing nut so the glass is laying where you need it.

5 - Unlike the original poster I mentioned, I worked from the outside of the car. I used a rubber mallet and plastic tool to firmly tap the inside edge down past the metal lip. Just slip the thin end past the outside lip so it’s touching the inside lip and give it a gentle whack. Every so often I’d duck into the car to make sure the lip had fully engaged. If it hadn’t, I used my pick tool to pop it into position.

  1. After the seal was in, I gently pushed down on the glass all the way around to make sure it was seated.

I guess it took about 45 minutes but at least 15 minutes of that were wasted when the glass kept sagging down. Once I put those suction cup things on, it went fairly quickly.

So what’s not done - I can’t get the locking strip in with the Lisle tool. There’s four choices for sliding it in and none of them seem to work. Is there a better tool? Or, am I just not doing it right?

Thanks.
Dave

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That may be one of the most accurate statements I have ever read on this forum!

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Nice write up.

I don’t know if this is part of your problem, but over in MGB-land, not all locking strips are created equally.

The ones from suppliers like Moss will test the patience of a saint, while the locking strips from other sources are significantly thinner, and slip right in.

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I used a card board box and a moving blanket to hold the window up. The locking strip tool i used had wire loop, little bit thinner profile. Next you get to put in the trim. more torture. The rubber lips are to wide to hold the trim in place and and the trim will slip up or down and out. The trick i found, after many attempts, was to position the trim on top of the rubber as close as you can and screw through the hole in the trim into your brand new rubber seal. Put some blobs of weather strip adhesive where you will need it and work the lip up around the trim. Clean up the horrible mess and put your clamps on and let it all set. Then pull the screws out and seal up the hole.

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Dave let us see the completed job and a further description of your methodologies

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I played around with that for a bit. My bag of rags can be seen in one of the photos but I just couldn’t get the glass to sit where I needed it. I had that and various boxes but the glass kept moving just a bit too much.

Interesting methodology. I found it best to put the rubber in the door frame first then starting at the bottom worked the glass into the seal. That way you have gravity working for you. I also found it best to insert the locking strip without a tool. Start by working a short piece into the groove, then bend the strip 180 deg back over itself & keep working pushing it forward against the bend you’ve created, slips in without too much difficulty (plenty of soap of course). .

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Thanks Randall,
I saw a video on line of guys installing a windshield by putting the seal on the body of the car first and using bedding compound to hold it in place. That would probably work on the windshield and I plan to try to do it that way. The problem with the back window is that the glass is laying at a very shallow angle. Gravity isn’t pushing it into the bottom groove. The entire piece of glass just wants to droop down.

I’ll try putting the locking strip as you suggested. Thanks!!!

EDIT: I just read a bit about bedding compound. It sounds way too messy. I’ll try the string method on the windshield first.

Dave

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I have this job to do soon solo on my FHC since I think the seals are still original from 1968 and quite dried out and cracked. Which one should be easier to try first for someone who has never done this job , the windshield or rear glass ?

David
68 E-type FHC

Rear glass, hands down: by “easier,” I mean “fewer gray hairs and new cuss words” easier.

:roll_eyes:

I’d be getting new proper seals ……that’s the way my glass bloke always does it….he makes it look easy….mind you his been doing it for 50 years

No one around here wants to do it. That little shop of horrors I used for a few things said they would do it and later said they wouldn’t.

I have a set of seals I bought from Welsh awhile back. I am going to lay them out flat for several days under some boards in the sun to hopefully un-coil them from the shape they developed in the packaging. Next up is to buy some of those suction cup hold-downs. Any other tool recommendations ? My thinking now is that I will try doing the back glass seal myself and see if it gives me enough confidence to tackle the windshield. A few weeks ago I talked at length to a mobile windshield guy and showed him pictures. He said he had he had dealt with this type of seal before so that will be plan B ii I get in trouble with the back glass. I have done similar pinch weld seals for the side glass on my 70’s Chevys but none of them have a locking strip or trim that fits into the seals.

David
68 E-type FHC

I just ordered this kit. It has more options for the locking strip.

If you don’t have one, get a proper locking strip installation tool. I’ve got one of these and it works well. Often available at your local auto parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-47000-Windshield-Locking-Strip/dp/B000COA1CQ/ref=asc_df_B000COA1CQ/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794461&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7143792579429367821&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026097&hvtargid=pla-496786570532&ref=&adgrpid=62497261819&th=1

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Thanks. I’ve got that exact tool but none of the four ends seem to fit into the locking grove. Maybe I’m not pushing enough.

The tool I ordered on eBay is also a locking strip tool. It has more options for the end piece.

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Hello everybody,

some good inputs here, many thanks.
I am always a bit scared with the front sreen as every time I have broken at least one per car until I found out that the dimension of the shell and the screen do have a tolerance of about 1 cm each. In case you have the most narrow A post gap and the widest windscreen it will never fit. I had one screen beeing 1 cm to wide and we got crazy.
I ordered new ones from PILKINGTON giving my cars dimension and from then on it worked really well.
In case you order or have a new screen, make sure you measure horizontal and vertical. The horizontal might be the same width whereas the height of the screens needs to be about 1- 1.5 cm lower.
I also had a screen which was even too low and never reached the rubber seal.

Now I have a question. I am installing a new tailgate glas on my 61 car. The screen has a different shape than the later cars. Does anynody know of a different rubber seal as the one I have is slighly loose.
The usual suspects only list one type.

Many thanks and keep posting your good and bad experiences. Always good to learn or confirm.

Maikel

Forgot to mention,

make sure you properly cover and protect the windscreen wiper as just one little knock will cost a new screen.
Of course also happenend to me. Good way of leaning isn’t it.

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I went to work on the car today and forgot my new windshield tool kit. I decided to give the Lisle tool another try and quickly figured what I’d been doing wrong. I was pulling not pushing the pointy end. With a bit of soapy water and this knucklehead holding the tool correctly, I had the locking strip installed in a ew minutes.

Congrats

Now comes the really fun part – installing the chrome strips.
{Don’t mean to be a killjoy.}