HINT: The car was from 191X’s
Stanley Steamer? …
Gotta be a bigger car-Stutz? The Bearcat had a big 4.
Those are really wide rod journals, so maybe a flat plane v8, but I don’t think those were made before the twenties. Stroke isn’t especially long (compared to the crank length) which seems unusual for that time when engines were usually very undersquare.
So third guess is a Bently 4.
Ooooo… yer gettin’ close!
Blitzen Benz. 21 liter 4 cylinder ?
With Craig’s permission --or not!! – Ill offer a small hint: the answer is simpler than you might imagine…
American Simplex. (hint too good)
50hp 4 cyl 2 stroke
2 Likes
This particular model was driven by a racer named Lister who was a medical biologist and developed an antiseptic still used today for mouth washes – according to Dave at Mile High Crack
2 Likes
Isn’t that the pot shop not the machine shop??? 
3 Likes
OMG there are two Simplex car companies. Crane - Simplex of NY was the bigger and better known of the two. Also built some large 4 cylinder cars including:
1909 90 HP Tourabout - large 11 liter straight four engine, with 90 horsepower (67 kW) and 3 valves per cylinder
1 Like
It took more than a week (including taking off for 4 days to allow back, knees and shoulder to heal) but I have completed the installation of X-Mat in the seating cabin of my series III.
I still have a fair bit of X-Mat left over and am considering applying to the cubby box area behind the seats; in the areas where the scissors and stuff is laying in first and second photo.
Pros
- The X-Mat is paid for - use it
- Probably the easiest areas to apply the stuff
- Adds a ~small~ bit of additional heat/noise protection
Cons
- Not a lot of heat coming from that area
- There is a heat shield in the cradle where the IRS lives
- Yeah, it’s paid for, but seems a waste
Anyone done it? or more usefully, anyone NOT done it and then lived to regret it?
Follow on Q: Does this stuff do any good if applied inside the door skin? Will I get the ‘clunk’ sound of a door on a Rolls being closed?
This photo also captures the remnants of the 18"x31" sheets already installed.
I still have 8 sheets of 18"x31" X-Mat.
.
.
.
.
1 Like
Having done exactly that on Tweety, with my leftover mat, I can attest to the fact that it will indeed soften the sound of the door closing.
You aren’t gonna equaled the thunk of a Rolls-Royce, if nothing else just because of the sheer mass of the Rolls versus the tiny little mass of the Jaguar doors.
If you think that was a bitch of a job – and with all due respect to your much older knees and back! – – Try doing the same job on a short wheelbase coupe.
1 Like
Nope
No thanks 
1 Like
Yeah, right, some friend you are… When I was doing that job, you were conveniently out of town.
It stops any “drumming” that you would get with there not being any in the door. I put stripss about 8" X 24" in each door centered horizontally. You don’t get that vault like thunk that you get with a Mercedes, but the door sounds much more solid when it closes. Does your car have the intrusion beams in the doors? If so, run a 4" wide strip horizontally above and below the beam.
I’d also put some on the forward sections of the rear wheel wells in the area I’ve circled in yellow; both int he areas you see in the photo and in the area between the panel and the inside of the rear quarter panel. You don’t need 100 % coverage to reduce sound.
1 Like
Oh hang on Paul. I’ve just got to find a tissue to dab the tears welling in my eyes.
Regards,
Bill
1 Like
John
The scales have fallen from my eyes.
The inner door skins are obvious areas to apply X-Mat.
I N-E-V-E-R would have thought to put it inside the rear fender cavities.
Thank you!
Craig
1 Like