Craig Restores a Series III - Part VIII

Thanks for that, mate: your generosity of spirit is only exceeded by your paucity of help, when I was doing that flipping job!


While I am thinking of them, here are two areas in which I did not apply sufficient attention to detail over time (I likely will ID more).
Those who know me and know me well (@Wiggles) know I am anal retentive and have OCD.
Also, I can not give a short answer when a much longer will do (@Wiggles ’ patience is often tested).
Given that, you’d think I would not be in this quandary.

(1) The small bits bits and where they go.
I thought I did a pretty good job tracking where the P-clamps go or the odd bracket.
After cad plating, I had 13 such small clamps in hand. So far, I have figured out where 8 of them go.
And that only after scouring many, MANY photos - several times (OCD - can’t let it go).
NOTE: for those disassembling large components or entire Jags: bag them, label them, photo them, and make notes in your journal about them regarding what they look like and where they go. (A true first world problem)

(2) IDing holes (big and small) in the floor and firewall
I discovered this one just yesterday.
When scouring my photos (see above) I discovered at least one and maybe two small holes in my firewall or adjacent sheet metal that were for grounding screws.
They are now well and truly covered with very sticky sheets of X-Mat.
Also, bolt holes in the floor that are used to secure the left and right corners of the rear engine mount (what I would call the transmission mount) open up into the floor. I did not cover them with X-Mat – coulda and shoulda.
Yeah – I know: another true first world problem.
Not such a big issue - I can drill a small hole kinda sorta where the original grounding strap was located and get the job done. Or go back and apply a small plug of X-Mat. But still – the 7x P’s apply (prior military will know this one).

(Proper Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance)

Sadly – I suspect there will be more to follow.
Watch this space

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Very interesting section. Doing the wheel arches reduces the sound of water splash in addition to any other gain. For those who drive their cars in the rain, or remember what rain was. Door skins very good place to treat, as already discussed. I’m a bit obsessive about rattles in doors, as first contact with the car I believe it sets the mood on every journey. I go round tapping with a knuckle and pushing to find loose parts that can rattle against each other. A small piece of foam or plastic on a lock rod can make me irrationally happy.
I do similar stuff on doors at home. My wife is a very tolerant lady.

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I am about to re-attach the rear bumper to my Series III OTS - three pieces plus the overriders.
I will apply painters tape to the body to minimize the impact(s) of may ooop-es in handling the bumpers.
I will lay the seal in the sun to soften / help straighten it
I ~believe~ the sequence is:

  1. Center section
  2. Left or Right wrap-around rear bumper
  3. Left or Right wrap-around rear bumper
  4. Attach bumper overriders

Any tips / pointers / pit falls?

I actually use random spots of super glue on the inside track of the rubber, otherwise you will go insane trying to keep them in place…also I forgot what year is your car… did you have the huge overriders? On my 74’ I swapped both front and back with overriders from a '71 model. Jeff S.

1972 - small overriders front and rear

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To make the sharp 180’ corners on the ends of the bumpers, you can cut the rubber/plastic trim on the unseen face between the fender and and bumper.

You want to put the left rear bumper on before you put the tank in.

You want to get lots of small rubber grommets and seal off all of the numerous small holes below the rear bumper. Exhaust fumes find their way in and are pulled into the boot and on to the cabin this way. You may have found fibreglass wadding in the gaps between the outer rear fenders and the inner wheel arches, presumably for this purpose.

kind regards

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I look forward to some photos of your progress with this job.

That only applies if the restoration work on Craig’s car has not been done correctly. The side securing bolts for the Rear B/Bar are part of a small two part assemblies that are assembled from the inside of the boot area and pop riveted in place. If these have been secured in place correctly, no access from inside the boot is required.

You need to ensure that these side bolts (the Left one in particular) are secured correctly, for if you ever have to remove the rear B/Bar down the track, you will curse having to remove the Fuel Tank to get to the Left Bolt if its not secured correctly.



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