But at this point there are many many things I could be doing but that do not gain any ground regarding preparation for installing the block. I’m not sure what I should be doing next but am certain there are things that ought be done before we insert the block.
I don’t know what I don’t know.
The good news is the rack is just sitting there. I could remove it in less than 5 minutes and am now comfortable that I can redo that jigsaw puzzle nearly as quickly. I had to relocate at least two P-Clamps holding the wiring harness in the frame that were in or too close to holes that receive the mountings for the PS Rack.
Craig
I’m not a pro as you well know but there is NO way I would reuse those power steering rack lines. Metal fatigue at the damage will come back to bite you if you don’t replace them.
Len
I removed the sway bar before the PS rack for what its worth.
As Paul suggests, that center line that sticks up on the PS rack is the number one point of interference on an engine installation, so I would get the engine in first if possible.
This is what I have . Fantastic job you’re doing , it will be a precious reference for anyone doing the same . Thanks for that .
As you are doing a complete restoration I would use new lines though, metal is much more souple and easier to shape and adjust, it is a big difference .
I sat down yesterday searching the web for a shop in Colorado Springs that I could have bend up replacement tubes. I knew it would need to be a quality place cuz these tubes have a ton of 3D curves and both ends thread into soIid end-points - no wiggle room.
I figured these pipes/tubes would only be available if I bought the whole bloody rack. Then I checked the regulars.
Bending new hydraulic lines is dead easy just using your thumbs, event tight curves. I did it last year for the brakes of a Renault from 58. They are made of a very ductile alloy. I didn’t know but they get much harder with time. So if you had a device to make flanges and the material form a hydraulics specialist that was also an option .
Thank You, Candie – a lot of the credit goes to @Wiggles repeated visits and work ethic as well as all the comments and inputs from the J-L community in particular @Jeff_Schroeder, @skiracer, and @angelw to mention the heavy lifters. (I hope I didn’t omit anyone - .)
If you ever get to Denver to visit Paul, you are certainly welcome to swing south and visit Colorado Springs - I’ll keep the lights on for ya (you ain’t seen OCD yet). Pike’s Peak is a fun ride.
Spent the last few days doing little things but mostly sitting and staring at the Jag and all the bits laying on bench tops, baker’s racks, in boxes, and on table tops.
Thinking. – – Making lists. – – More thinking.
The target of all that brainificating was to ensure I had installed all the things on the Jag and - in particular - in the engine bay that need to be reinstalled prior to installing the engine. Only want to do that ONCE.
Here is what I have come up with:
MUST INSTALL PRIOR TO INSTALLING ENGINE
ALREADY IN
ABOUT TO GO IN
BRAKE BOOSTER
FRESH AIR HOSE TO CABIN
CLUTCH MASTER
MOTOR MOUNTS
CLUTCH LINE AND ALL HYDRUALIC RELATED BITS
BRAKE LINES FWD OF F-WALL
VACUUM LINE ON FIREWALL
FUEL LINES FWD OF F-WALL
WIPER MOTOR
WHAT
ALL RELAYS
AM
WIRING HARNESSES
I
GROUND STAPS
MISSING
UPPER WISHBONES
??
LOWER WISHBONES
MUST INSTALL ONLY AFTER ENGINE IS INSTALLED
POWER STEERING RACK
HEATER MATRIX
UNDERCARRIAGE SPLASH SHIELDS
RADIATOR AND COWLING
UPRIGHTS ON SUSPENSION AND AXLE STUBS
BRAKE DISCS AND LINES
TORSION BARS
SHOCK ABSORBERS
BRAKE LINES FROM FIREWALL AND AFT
FUEL LINES FROM FIREWALL AND AFT
BONNET SAFETY CATCH ON FIREWALL
INSTALL THESE ANYTIME IN SEQUENCE
INTERIOR - CARPET AND SEATS
GAUGE PANELS AND DASH TOP
BOOT ITEMS AND FUEL TANK
TOP - FRAME AND HOOD
WINDSHIELD
BUMPERS FRONT AND REAR
LIGHTS / LAMPS - ALL
A/C EVAPORATOR AND ALL HOSES
About the only item I am uncertain of is the steering column. It makes sense to me to install it prior to the engine but it’ll just be dangling there without a Steering Rack to attach to. Therefore it also makes sense to install it after the engine is in place. Help
Any tips on proper sequencing of even small bits?? anything to avoid the dreaded “one step backward”?
Why would you install the seats and carpets first? I can only assure that no matter how clean you work, installing the windshield, panels and other HVAC equipment will be messy. At most I would install some hard to reach carpet pieces (those to be glued) but would certainly leave the rest, incl. seats for the very very end.
A very good and valid point, but you gave my listing far more accuracy than I am able to impart.
My intent was to group the reassembly sequence in three general categories. I wish I had the foresight to accurately sequence the action within each category. My plan is to take the actions in each grouping as they come and/or as logic dictates.
I would definitely install the steering column before the engine, as well. It is much easier to get it where it belongs when you can get a guiding hand in, and it doesn’t interfere with engine installation at all.
Craig
I can’t speak about your V 12, thats a big engine but with my Series l I/2 we left the steering column in during both the removal and install of the rebuilt engine. I don’t think it would be a problem with your engine install.
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