Craig Restores a Series III - Part XIII

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SUMMARY OF PREVIOUS THREADS I thru XII

Part I - Introduction of Hobby Shop and removal of engine/transmission

Part II - Removal of all wiring harnesses, dropping fuel tank, stripping the car of all ancillaries and cleaning asphalt coating from under-body/bonnet

Part III - Engine Tear Down, Removal of Heads, Chrome to Chrome shop, Prep for and actual Painting of the Jaguar

Part IV - A comprehensive matrix of nickel and cadmium platers // Procedure for removing crankshaft // Removing timing chain, guides and tensionor // Repair Timing Chain Cover (aluminum welding) // V12 Exhaust system options // Removal and ultimately Replacing Oil Pump ($$) // Checking Cam Sprockets for reuse // Challenges of removing 6 stuck pistons/sleeves (significant portion of this thread) – including a trip to a machinist; spread over a wide range of posts // Discussion of glass beading and/vs vapor blasting // Return of Chrome

Part V - carbs and dizzy return from rebuild (with contact data) // options for A/C compressor // installed left and right side wiring harnesses and Bulkhead Harness // challenges attaching Bulkhead Harness Grommet (C30670) // Elastrator as a possible tool to solve issue // more on vapor blasting – a definitive discussion // purchased a non-Series III boot lid seal during a group buy to use as a boot lid seal // started install of distributed compressed air from the compressor.

Part VI - processes of wiring new bulkhead harness to the 4x new fuse boxes // variations of Series III Wiring Diagrams // MarekH: Jaguar Wiring 101 // how-to regarding Home Made Circuit Tester for less than $10 // Comparo of newly cadmium bits and tubes to old // rebuilding wiper motor // new Exhaust System // comparo of incandescent bulbs to LED equivalent // camparo of mechanical brake light switch vs hydraulic // tricks to re-installing pick-up/return lines and the ins and outs of the in-tank fuel filter // receipt of all bits to rebuild heads and choosing a machine shop // YouTube videos covering the wiring of the 10x switches on the gauge panel // a source for better than new Front Upper A-Arms (AKA wishbones)

Part VII - the Terminal Post on a Series III is Whitworth (a 1/4 Whitworth Spanner will be correct) and the proper sequencing of the cables // the utility of grounding straps including photos of OEM grounding straps locations // do’s and don’ts’s of applying Dielectric Grease // heads are refurbished – machining done // a schedule of lead times for out-sourced procedures // application of ceramic coating on my fresh paint // definitive identification of Horn Relay Bracket // installing LED panels in brake/tail lamps and front turn signals // a pair of restored Upper Wishbones arrive from Australia // THE definitive discussion of dealing with hydrogen embrittlement on cadmium plated parts //

Part VIII - the need for special washers or rivets to attach side chrome on door // testing fuel sender // installing X-Mat sound-heat barrier on floor pan // receive crankshaft and ConRods back from balancing / polishing // the utility of DEI heat shields // return of ½ the front suspension pieces from cad Plater // Interior Kit receives // the complete solution of the placement of unmarked underfelt pieces

Part IX - applying ACF-50 on aluminum pieces, pressing in Front Suspension Bushings, installation technique for C30670 firewall grommet, stripping radiator cowl. dealing with inner and outer seals on window crank handle.

Part X - assembly of Pistons onto Rods, deciphering A and B pistons vs A and B Head on V12, beginning to reattach front suspension, front horseshoe frame can go on two ways but only one is correct, techniques to plug the air Injection Ports on exhaust side of V12 heads, powder coated cam covers, locknuts vs lock washers, repair options for A/C evaporator and condenser, repair options to rebuild PS rack, A/C compressor replacement options, relay on switches of A/C evaporator, window regulator and various door seals, installing pistons on crankshaft, no need to clock gaps in piston rings, correct version of timing chain tensioner, PDWA install, renewing Radiator Fan Motors, and Bulkhead Layout diagram.

Part XI - how to re-attached hard lines, sources for Belleville Washers, correct assembly order for washers/spacers/etc on upper/lower front suspension, THE definitive discussion about window regulator - where seals go (and where they don’t) - lube points - winder spring - how to insert the regulator - sequence of insertion, Lesson Learned about trusting vs verifying (ref machine shop setting valve lash), dimensions and obstructions for hard wood spacer insert in the bottom of the picture frame, adding a duct fan to fresh air hoses, grounding strap(s), and it’s a tie down point used during shipping not a towing eye.

Part XII - upper and lower door glass stops, applying DEI Heat Shields to Trans Tunnel, importance of cleanliness of regulator spring, Terry’s for long and short PS Rack lines (plan on 3-5 weeks for delivery), orientation of motor mounts (and the challenges of mounting them), installing boot matting and the mat that doesn’t belong on an OTS (lots of photos of original matting), conducting a gas leak test of valves sets, short block → long block, powder coating result,

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I really enjoy following your progress Craig. Thanks for taking the time to document your work.

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Thanks Dave - I enjoy the reporting nearly as much as the restoring.
I hope the notes and photos help somebody sidestep my errors.

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Absolutely they will Craig …I keep reading with interest …… whoever the next custodian ( eventually ) of this beauty is will be able to say with certainty ……this restoration is well documented ….keep it up ……it’s not something that I could do with your same enthusiasm ……Harvey is the same …… it’s terrific to see such dedication

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If the engine runs well THEN I’ll sign the oil pan.

:laughing:

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HEY!! Just what exactly is this IF SH!T :shocking:

I expect nothing less than :3gears: (but with 5 gears; not just three)

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Just wanted to close out the topic I broached in Part XII: finding and using the M12x1.0 tap to prepare the hole in the brake light switch mount to install the Lucas replacement brake light switch (with metric threads) into the mount (with SAE threads).

The tap (and die) arrived on Wednesday (took about a week even using Amazon Prime) and I finally got a chance to use it today.

Very anticlimactic.
It was fussy getting the first threads to be cut aligned - I assume cuz the original SAE- threaded hole was so close in size to the metric tap.
Once properly aligned, it took about 20 seconds to cut the new threads.
The Lucas replacement brake light switch threaded into place without fuss.

If a J-Ler needs the tap to do the above, just let me know.

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Where did you get that guy burning rubber in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear ?

Cool !

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I spent some time documenting (with at least the level of detail I am posting my restoration path) the build of my Garaj Mahal on Garagejournal.com. (If you are interested, my thread is Craig's Colorado Car Condo | The Garage Journal – ya gotta subscribe to see photos, but there are no ads bombarding your in-box nor embedded in the site.)

They have a pretty neat compilation of animated emoji’s over there

:deadhorse
:beer:
:rocketwho
:rant:

but little racing dude is my favorite

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You can copy the gif image and save it to your computer. Then simply add it to any posts you want!

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I’ll be dingle dangled!

Thanks… I always wondered how to do that… :slight_smile:

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Thanks Doug

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But where did the cool thing come from ?:blush:

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Asked, answered…

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I had to slow down a bit Paul……

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I really had to switch gears today ( :3gears:) and put in a day’s work on finally completing my compressed air distribution system. (After being severely chastised by @Wiggles for the third time, I needed to get off my ass.)

I installed much of the lines in the larger room with a 14 foot ceiling back in May 2022 (after my Jag had been in dry dock for 14 months). I hadn’t planned well and was stymied by the black pipe vertically bolted to the wall with near-zero clearance. That stalled my initial efforts.

I picked up there and today added the zig and zag - hence the step in the first photo.

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I was expecting help from three Jaguar stalwarts but @Wiggles and his buddy Dave along with @Jeff_Schroeder got hit with a late spring snow storm. Gotta love Colorado. With their help this whole set of lines would have taken an hour, maybe two. Getting to this step took 2 hours.

The last leg was to run the air line from the corner to the garage door (I want t have the option of extending compressed air outside the garage door. Another coupla hours.

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Looks like it would be easy and straight forward but it took multiple repositioning’s of the scissor lift, using foot-long left overs of the wiring for the garage to lash the loose end of the line, using the window sill as a brace, and several trips up and down for forgotten tools or bits. Got some house keeping to take care of that requires the lift.

Still gotta plumb the air lines into the Dirty Room and the small room (both require drilling through walls) but that doesn’t require a scissor lift. Pretty sure I have enough components and hard line.

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My garage ( quite small by comparison ) has only 3 outlets which installed prior to the plaster lining going in ! ….I have one connected to a 20 metre reel on the ceiling

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That is one of the housekeeping steps I’m gonna try today.
I have a hose reel I intend to attach to the ceiling.
That leg was installed during my initial efforts over a year ago

image

With my Jag on the lift immediately below where I want to install it – that may hafta wait.

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Utek say good idea.

:smirk:

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Sure beats my procedure-- long hose attached to compressor, snaked under the lift when it is up.

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Craig

How many cars do you intend to do in the Garage Mahal? Not just one Series III I hope. I think I have a basket case XK-140 with your name on it.:slightly_smiling_face:.

Rod