Hi All,
I’m refreshing my coolant in my 61- Mk 2, 3.8. Any advice how to get the cylinder block drain tap open. I can get my hand on it but no leverage to get it open and then closed.
Many thanks!
Shelley Yoelin
61-Mk 2
69 E-Type FHC
Hi Shelley,
if just refreshing the coolant you could surely leave the tap shut and just change the water in the radiator and down to the water pump inlet, there won’t be that much left in the block?
Also means that the tap doesn’t become leaky, which can be repaired but that needs access.
David
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It’s well worth draining the block , silt builds up , if you can’t undo the tap , remove it , and don’t be surprised to see a Orange wall of silt , once the tap is out , you can free it up before refitting !
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Hi Shelley
I agree with Ian. Remove the drain tap completely and then flush the block through and you will be amazed how much sludge is inside. The tap should free off once it is out
I have found that USA cars are hardly ever filled with a rust inhibitor in the radiator
In Uk, we put antifreeze in ours and most contain some form of anti-corrosive inhibitor
Cheers
Brian
Just my two cents
I remove it and for 2 dollars at SNG or Moss
I put the bolt with the washer
Never leaks no risk of leak and unscrew it every blue moon to flush everything out
The valve is a disaster waiting to happen
Imho
Gtjoey1314
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Hi All,
Success! I was able to slide an 11/32 long (2") socket (from a 1/4" set) over the arm of the tap. That gave me enough leverage to turn the arm and open the tap. I drained the remaining gallon of coolant.
I then refilled the system with 3 gallons of filtered drinking water and a 12 ounce bottle of Royal Purple Ice.
My Mk2 is in Palm Springs, California and doesn’t need anti freeze. The car runs cool in the 100F temperatures.
Thanks for your comments!
Shelley Yoelin
61 Mk2
69 E-Type FHC
Hi,
It does not matter if it’s in Cairo or the North Pole. You need proper cooling fluid because along the cooling path are parts made of aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper and possibly some other metals.
You need ”antifreeze” aka glycol based cooling fluid with additives that protect from corrosion, and you need to replace and flush it every 2-3 years.
Or you will have corrosion indide the engine, the passages and the radiator will get clogged by the debris from the cylinder head, the engine block, the timing cover and the inlet manifold, or worse: eventually the timing cover or the inlet manifold will start leaking coolant into the inlet tracts or the oil gallery.
Cheers!
Ps. I have seen S3 XJ6 engines from CA where the head studs have corroded so far they have essentially broken into two! Because no antifreeze was ”needed”!
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Hi,
I have no idea what that is, but if it’s a corrosion inhibitor for cooling systems, then good.
I always follow the factory ROM instructions, it makes life easier. 
Cheers!
Ps. I hope it’s better than Smirnoff Ice! 
Shelley, Great to hear but as others have said…
Add antifreeze, old green antifreeze, not the blue or red.
Green or cheat with orange. Aluminum , steel, stainless all create a reaction to water…
Antifreeze will stabilize it along with lowering the risk of rust on the water pump and other parts.
Also pay attention to the spigut as once it rebuilds pressure to see if it leaks.
Enjoy that ride. Taking Ellie out to dinner in ours right now…
Enjoy
gtjoey1314
Hopefully it still seals. My experience with them is that the reason they get so stiff is that sediment laden fluid allows deposits to seep around the tapered stopper. Each time you force it to move with a long lever that sediment scores the stopper and bore to the point where it drips badly.
At the next opportunity you’d be well served to remove it and very carefully take it apart so the parts don’t sproinggg. Then clean them and apply non hardening plumber’s grease. If they’re badly scored, polish them by putting very fine paste in between and moving the handle back and forth. Do not use course lapping paste or you’ll destroy it. Assemble with equal care to prevent it flying apart. The spring will find the darkest corner of your garage to live out the rest of its days peacefully.
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Hi,
I have had that happen on a glovebox lid lock! That’s why I would NEVER EVER try to assemble the synchros of a gearbox in the garage. Inside a plastic bag in a tidy small white room is much better.
Cheers!
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Great idea Joey - I always fear the drain tap will break / not seal again after use - your idea is an inspired alternative - do you recall what the bolt size / thread it is?
I don’t but all the big guys have it with the washer
It’s a kookie size length
The block is tapped for 1/2“-20 tpi. Same as the oil galley bolts on the other side of the block, if you have a spare.
Thanks Mike, thanks Joey - I’ll order one up ready for the next coolant change.
I’m on a roll over 300 miles today and that’s one thing I’m not worrying about👍🏾
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