[DaimLan] 2.5 V8 Dies when hot

Hi,

I have a problem with Fathers 1966 V8, I wonder if there is anyone
out there that can help.

As lomg as I can remember the car has exibited this fault and we
have therefore not used it very much, but I am determined to get it
fixed now so…

When the engine gets to operating temperature (it never overheats,
according to the temp gauge)the engine dies and nothing can be done
until it cools… She starts on the button, will warm up and idle
sweetly but at a given point all of a sudden power will be lost and
it will 1. sometimes refuse to start all together. 2. Idle but not
rev or 3. Not even allow the starter motor to turn (just discovered
this fault). Leave it 20 mins and all is fine, albeit temporarily.

The engine appears to die under load, ie when you select either L,
D or R. It can sometimes be put back into neutral where it will rev
again, but inevitably it will eventually die.

So far I have found/replaced spilt inlet manifold spacers, sticking
carb float needle valves and holed floats. Replaced the points with
lumenition, tappets adjusted, inhibitor switch checked and
adjusted, found a petrol filter on the ‘in’ side of the pump that
was thick with gunk and replaced it (the one in the engine bay has
also been replced, this was clean). New plugs, new leads, carbs set
up again and again, new coil, new dynamo, new voltage regulator.
None of this has fixed it!

On the face of it it appears to be fuel starvation, but with the
other fault (3) its seems heat/electrical related?

Thanks

Andre–
AET
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Andre,

You said- On the face of it appears to be fuel starvation, but with the
other fault (3) its seems heat/electrical related?

I wouldn’t disagree with your diagnosis.
Many years ago an old garage mechanic who I had a lot of respect for said "
When an engine fails to start or stops quickly there is usually not one
fault, but three and it was the third one that was the killer. You’ve found
thirteen and still got the problem !

Suggestion on fuel starvation-

  1. Leave the Petrol filler cap off and see if that makes any difference,

if it doesn’t

  1. Try blowing the fuel lines with compressed air, starting at the front and
    working back to the tank in a reverse flow.

If clear

  1. Flush out petrol tank.

  2. As a quick diagnostic check, disconnect fuel line at carbs and jury rig a
    gravity feed and see if any difference.

  3. If your carbs have an electric enrichment device for start up, try
    disconnecting it.

To be a wet blanket, a fellow member has an XJ6 and his car starts and runs
for 30 miles OK, then cuts out and won’t restart until cool. He has yet to
isolate the problem.

Best Wishes Keith

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In reply to a message from AET sent Mon 5 May 2008:

Unfortunately I cant help you as I experience similar problems,and
like you have changed everything electrical/fuel associated.My next
port of call would have been to fit the eletronic Lumination kit.

My car starts great when cold, but if switched off when hot is
pretty impossible to start untill cold.I have directly put fuel
into the carbs to eliminate fuel starvation, no success, I have
even used a booster battery just incase the spark plugs were not
being given enough power to ignite the fuel.

Sorry I cant help, but you are not on your own.–
The original message included these comments:

When the engine gets to operating temperature (it never overheats,
according to the temp gauge)the engine dies and nothing can be done
until it cools… She starts on the button, will warm up and idle


Daimler Stef
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In reply to a message from Keith Kennils sent Mon 5 May 2008:

I’ve just had the same problem on my 2.5 V8 from 63’.

I checked all the obvious leads on fuel supply etc. But in the end
it turned out to be a loose cable shoe on the coil ballast resistor
(have upgradet to Lumenition electronic ignition).

It gave pretty good contact when cold, but once hot the (female)
cable shoe was expanding giving poor contact (and thus weak spark),
making the car running poor and eventually stop.

So a quick check would be to check all electrical connections they
are loose.
regards
Jan-Erik–
The original message included these comments:

Andre,
You said- On the face of it appears to be fuel starvation, but with the
other fault (3) its seems heat/electrical related?
I wouldn’t disagree with your diagnosis.
Many years ago an old garage mechanic who I had a lot of respect for said ‘’
When an engine fails to start or stops quickly there is usually not one
fault, but three and it was the third one that was the killer. You’ve found
thirteen and still got the problem !
Suggestion on fuel starvation-

  1. Leave the Petrol filler cap off and see if that makes any difference,
    if it doesn’t


JEP
Bergen, Norway
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