I apologise for posting this twice, once on the Saloons and once
here, but I thought I might just get a wider audience. I am about
to install the engine and Manual/OD box into my Daimler.
The car and engine came separately so I do not know how it was
removed. I have searched the threads which show a consensus on mark
2s for dropping the suspension and taking engine/trans out of the
bottom. Unfortunately, this cannot be done with the V8 because it
is too wide . I have become really rather nervous about this
because of the height of lift required to enable the very long
apparatus to enter the engine bay and then go into the gearbox
tunnel . I have a fairly ordinary engine crane, and one of the 2
feet long screw type load levellers, and I am also able to tilt the
nose of the car heavily nose down ( rear wheels centres 3 feet off
the ground) using my hydraulic lift but even so it all looks a very
tight squeeze. All advice/suggestions/experience gratefully
received–
christopher storey
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Hi,
I put mine in from the top during the major restoration but mine is an automatic. I guess your gearbox/overdrive will be longer. My car was on the level but I did have a larger than normal engine crane and a rope around the engine and it was al a bit touch and go and took a long time to get it right.
Roger Holmes
1969 V8-250On 7 Mar 2012, at 19:07, christopher storey wrote:
I apologise for posting this twice, once on the Saloons and once
here, but I thought I might just get a wider audience. I am about
to install the engine and Manual/OD box into my Daimler.
The car and engine came separately so I do not know how it was
removed. I have searched the threads which show a consensus on mark
2s for dropping the suspension and taking engine/trans out of the
bottom. Unfortunately, this cannot be done with the V8 because it
is too wide . I have become really rather nervous about this
because of the height of lift required to enable the very long
apparatus to enter the engine bay and then go into the gearbox
tunnel . I have a fairly ordinary engine crane, and one of the 2
feet long screw type load levellers, and I am also able to tilt the
nose of the car heavily nose down ( rear wheels centres 3 feet off
the ground) using my hydraulic lift but even so it all looks a very
tight squeeze. All advice/suggestions/experience gratefully
received
christopher storey
–Posted using Jag-lovers JagFORUM [forums.jag-lovers.org]–
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In reply to a message from christopher storey sent Wed 7 Mar 2012:
For those interested in this topic, I now have some answers, having
done the job, which may help others.
DO’s
Remove any car ramp etc from beneath the car
Remove front bumper, which gives more fore/aft clearance for the
crane
Remove centre stabiliser fixing bracket from the top of the
bellhousing
Remove Distributor
Remove carburetters
Remove OD solenoid
Remove servo air valve ( very vulnerable )
Get someone to guide the rear of the box and OD with a rope
Tilt engine and box to a maximum tail down position if the
subframe etc is still present - I needed about 70 degrees tail down
once the whole apparatus was over the aperture to achieve clearance
PROBABLE HELPS
Remove front subframe and roll bar : I found the crucial squeeze
is caused by the very limited diagonal distance between the
crossmember/antiroll bar and the throttle slave cross shaft on the
front of the bulkhead ( which I managed to bend) . Removal of the
subframe etc eliminates these hangup points
DON’T BOTHER WITH
Taking front wheels off to lower the front
Raising the rear wheels
Raising the front wheels–
christopher storey
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