I am replacing a damaged front stub axle. My car is a '95 VDP but date of manufacture was November of '94. I have seen descriptions of axles that are pressed in from the outboard side and have a large nut on the inboard side. My axle appears to have been pressed in from the inboard side and has no nut. (Google CAC4650 for a photo) Maybe an earlier type?
Is there any way to remove this in situ? I thought about just hammering on the outer end of the axle, since it needs to exit inboard, maybe while heating the axle carrier, but am afraid of bending the axle carrier. Also, things are rusty so not optimistic hammering will do it. So I plan on disconnecting the ball joints, steering arm, etc and removing the entire axle carrier and having a machine shop press the old axle out and the new one in.
However I read somewhere on here that the manual says one must use a spring compressor before removing the axle carrier. I had assumed I could simply put a jack stand under the lower control arm and let the weight of the car rest on it, thus keeping the spring in place and taking all strain off the axle carrier, and safely disconnect the ball joints and remove it. Is that not true? Seems like the car is resting on the spring which is resting on the lower control arm which is resting on the jack stand. If Iām wrong and the spring gets looseā¦
I have rebuilt entire front ends on older Jags years ago but always had the whole thing disassembled. In this case I just need to remove the axle/hub carrier so I can have the axle pressed out and would rather not deal with removing or compressing the spring. What say ye? Sorry for such a long post.
Yep looks like you are correct in that it exits towards the car. Using a jack stand to support the lower arm could cause access problems for removing the lower ball joint.
If you leave the damper connected to the lower control arm you should be able to disconnect the upper and lower ball joints without having to remove the spring. I have changed the lower ball joint a number of times this way, because the boots are failing frequently.
The stub axle needs to be pressed out, and the new one needs to be pressed in as well using a hydraulic press. I have replaced my stub axles this way, but we do have a 20 ton press. Hammering probably will just lead to damage and frustration (and probably more damage).
[edited: damper for strut. Reasion: confusion]
You should use the spring compressor. Join the Coventry Foundation or JCNA and just borrow the special compressor. That doesnāt mean nobody has ever done it with a trolley jack but why take any risks when the ārightā loaner costs very little. You could also buy the compressor from SNG Barratt but itās not cheapā¦. The SNG/OTC part number is 204-111 (JD115 is the same thin)
Thank you for the reply. I didnāt know I could borrow one. I used a homemade one years ago to actually replace the springs on an XJS but itās in another state right now. Iām working in a condo parking lot in Florida, trying to keep a low profile, ha-ha! I may just use a length of heavy threaded rod and washers and install from the top of the spring tower to the bottom of the pan, if the design of this X300 is similar to my old XJS. That should keep the spring in place if the weight of the car is not enough and act as a backup. Donāt want to actually remove the spring if I donāt have to, I remember it being a real PITA. There was also a diagram for how to build a really good homemade one on here years agoā¦probably still out there somewhere. Thanks for your help. This is an awesome forum and has saved me a lot of money and helped me stay away from the repair shops. 
Thanks for your replay. If a strut is a combination spring and shock, I donāt have that. The shock is separate and I think it bolts to the actual part I need to remove (hub/axel carrier). I think I will run a fat piece of threaded rod up through the center of the spring, from the top of the spring tower to the bottom of the pan, as a safety backup. Yeah, trying to avoid damage and frustration, both! Working on these cars can be fun and satisfyingā¦emphasizing ācan be.ā Definitely taking the part to a machine shop. Thanks again.
Thanks, Iāll scope that out before I start. May use a large threaded rod run up thru the spring from the top of the spring tower to the bottom of the pan as a safety backup. And maybe have my GF sit on the fender, ha-ha! F.
I have edited my post above. Strut was incorrect wording. You are correct though with your description of what makes a strut. Leave the damper connected.
I didnāt realize you were working in a parking lot. The factory tool requires the car to be quite a bit off the ground. You certainly wonāt be able to get it high enough on jackstands. Iās
Sadly have not been able to locate a hydraulic automobile hoist in the condo parking lot. 
Just trying to stay on the good side of the condo association president. Iām sure doing car repairs in the parking lot is prohibited somehow. Just tinkering with an antique car, I tell themā¦