Desludging the crankshaft

While my engine build is in hiatus awaiting conrod bolts I thought I’d use my idle time to post this interesting learning experience. Some of us got into an earlier discussion about doing upgrades to the 3.4 engine while it’s being rebuilt, extended to the minimum that should be done. Like desludging the crankshaft.

I’m no experienced XK engine rebuilder. This is my second one. The first was my 4.2 E-type engine and it took many hours over a couple of days to get the sludge plugs out. I wasn’t looking forward to the process again but you gotta do it.

First thing I noticed is the plugs in the 3.4 crank are a lot smaller than the 4.2.

which means a couple of things. They should be easier to get out and the sludge traps in the 3.4 are a lot smaller too.

This is what I used to get them out.

My impact wrench is 1/2 inch but 1/2 inch impact sockets fitted with 1/4" hex bits are either rare or non-existent so this is a standard 3/8" hex socket mated to a 1/2" to 3/8" impact adaptor. The extension is needed to get square access to the #3 and #4 sludge plugs.

I broke off the hex bit on the very first plug I tackled, #6. The one that’s easiest to access. Get that bit just a little off square and say goodbye. I went out and bought two more hex sockets at ten bucks each. Then went through a socket when it spun around on its bit. Then put its intact bit into the socket whose bit had broken and promptly snapped it off. Running out of bits I reversed the broken bit and pressed it into the socket which, of course, made the bit too short, so I spun the bit in the plug and that was all she wrote. Three hours later and very careful drilling and heating and lubing so as not to damage the threads in the crank and out she came. Not a good start. Five to go.

I broke another two bits taking out the five others but they all took a lot less time.

This is #1 big end sludge plug. It was the only one of the six staked only three times, the others four.

I used a narrow, sharp cold chisel to break the stakes then heated the area with a propane torch, covering up the main journal with a piece of sheet metal to protect it during the process - that white stuff you see on the journals is a smear of grease to keep them from flash rusting.

and this is what it looks like with the plug freshly extracted:

and this is the crap that came out of the trap:

pretty much representative of all. A lot of solvent flushing and compressed air followed to get things pristine.

You really gotta desludge your crank for either a refresh like this one or a total rebuild, but I’m looking forward to never having to do this job again. :sunglasses:

Lessons learned: A quarter inch hardened hex bit is not exceptionally strong. Keep the impact wrench perfectly square to the plug or you will snap off bits. You’re likely to snap a couple off anyway, or maybe spin a bit in its socket, so buy a few. Use propane heat ahead of hitting the area with PB Blaster before applying the impact wrench.

6 Likes

You get five stars from me. I don’t think I ever successfully removed one without drilling.

1 Like

Wow, you have succeeded in showing the riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma in a much more pleasant, though still difficult, situation compared to Churchill’s. Thanks for sharing the method to overcome incredible frustration on that task. High five!

Nick, just wondering if the hex bits were of high quality…like snap on/ blue point or other tool company? Or the usual unknown sourced Asian steel?
Glad you prevailed, congrats.

Nicely done. My block and head are out and I’ve been waiting for a snowy evening. I don’t think we’re getting any snow this year… but I do still have to do this. Dangit.

A good question, David. These are the hex bit sockets I bought.

They’re made in China. Would western made bit sockets have performed better? I don’t know. This is branded a Maximum product with a lifetime guarantee so ostensibly the best they can offer. But they’re not branded as impact sockets, which I couldn’t find locally. I was more concerned about the 1/2”-1/4” impact adapter not being able to take the load but it held up no problem. To break these plugs loose you need to apply some brutal impact forces. These had two different failure mechanisms. The bit and the socket itself. The bit snapping off is I think directly attributable to angle of attack - keep the angle of attack perfectly square and they’ll hold up - but the socket spinning around the bit indicates a weak point not designed for impact forces.

In this case, what was/is the “sludge” made of, please?

kind regards
Marek

Broken down oil and contaminants, Marek. A consequence of old lubricant technology and infrequent changes. Detergent engine oils were available from the mid-50s but still not widely used, so sludge built up in these older engines, particularly the crankshaft. Refill an older engine with detergent oil and expect it to loosen the crud and cause a lubrication failure, but clean out the engine and use modern oils with frequent changes and it’ll stay clean.

1 Like

Nick, why did you use an air gun to remove the plugs? Wouldn’t the bit attached to a long breaker bar have been enough to do the same thing? Just curious.

A long breaker bar might work if everything was set up perfectly, Christopher. The toughest problem would be to figure out a way to immobilise the crank without risking damage - you’d need the crankshaft to be rock solidly fixed in place while applying the tremendous radial moment it will take to overpower the inertia of the pipe threaded sludge plugs in their seats. Even then if the bit is not perfectly centred in the plug it will snap off. I’m convinced the only way to extract these things is using impact forces.

I found a long bar just strips out the inner hex shape, meaning drilling out is the only option

I think Nicks use of both heat and impact after chiseling the stakes all added up to success

1 Like

Agreed. I learned from a couple of mistakes taking out the first plug.

One. I tried drilling out the stakes. The plugs are mild steel, the crank is case hardened, so while drilling removes material from the edge of the plug it leaves burrs on the perimeter of the female opening that keeps the plug from turning. Better to shear the stakes than drill them.

Two. I failed to keep the bit square as I triggered the wrench, skewing the impact moment off centre and causing the bits to snap.

Three. First couple of attempts were without heat, and when I did apply heat it was to the area around the plug rather than to the plug itself, thinking the heat would expand the female opening away from the male plug threads. Wrong. The softer steel in the sludge plug gets much softer when it’s heated up to around 500F, which is not nearly hot enough to affect the metallurgy of the case hardened crank, but enough for the male threads of the plug to yield. As it was, I probably achieved binding the plug more tightly rather than loosening it. At this point the die was likely cast. It wasn’t going to come out willingly.

Four. I used a shortened bit that wasn’t entirely seated in the plug, reducing the surface area of the applied forces and causing the bit to strip the plug … and then I was screwed. I didn’t even try using an easy-out - if it didn’t budge with a hex bit it ain’t coming out with an extractor. Progressive drilling to reduce the plug to a hollow shell, penetrant, heat and collapsing the wall of the shell inward with a small drift got it out, along with the copious use of words of which mother would have disapproved. I’m sure the thing would still be in there had I not cursed it profusely, but what I was doing wasn’t working so I had to take a break and suss it out.

The second and subsequent plugs got the more considered treatment described and all came out intact within 5 minutes or so each.

This is the way to do it.

2 Likes

you must be having more trouble for various reasons than i have experienced.
i file off the stakes and use an allen key with a short length of pipe. do it from directly above with crank held by ankles.

I wonder if a carbide burr in a dremel might be 5h3 optimum method for removing the staking and leaving a smooth thread?

You have some impressive ankles.

1 Like

Ratchet straps are an incredible tool in the one-man shop. When I need an extra set of hands something’s getting strapped down.

I completely demolish a few a year.

My ankles are not impressive at all.

One can never have too many…
-clamps
-1/2 sockets
-bungees
-tie down straps.

Oh, and gaffers tape.

:grimacing:

1 Like

Maybe some of these plugs were installed with varying amounts of force from car to car which is then compounded by age and environment (?) In truth, the machinist I used for my rebuild last summer was the one who removed my plugs. And, endless complainer that he is, this is one item he said nothing about other than the crap inside mirrored exactly what was found in yours. I still have the old plugs and their internal hexes are still very serviceable so I’ll speculate it wasn’t an issue for him. But thanks for your post as I’ll file away your experience in my mental watch list should I tackle another engine.

Hey, worth a shot Mitch. Given all the sludge plug horror stories, coming up with a simpler solution than this would be golden. Maybe a YouTube video.

Yes, it’s simple. If I was to desludge another crank it would go much faster. Just passing this on.

Hang tough, Geoff. There may be an easier way to do this job yet to be shared.