I bought the shaft spacers from him, I did ask him a question but he did not get back to me, he is probably closing down as he is 70 and lost his wife recently, I could try him again, if he was not shut at the moment I could be tempted to take it o him as he is only 15 miles away,
NWG
Thank you for informing (at least me) on some issues with CWPās that I had not appreciated, particularly that wear will probably occur when operating with incorrectly preloaded bearings. Fitting new bearings to a worn CWP set is likely a crap shoot in terms of having a quiet set up.
I conclude from your remarks that the easiest way of getting a quiet rear axle is to buy new CWP from a reputable manufacture such as DANA Spicer.
Lapping used gears on a Gleason would be less expensive assuming you have a shop available to do the work.
Bruce
Greetings All,
Do you plan on disassembling wheels for powder coating or just never adjusting them once the spokes and nipples have been powder coated together?
Check the wheels over, adjust / tighten as reqd, blast and powder coat assembled, I have 7 or 8 slightly rusty chrome wheels, bought for almost nothing, will probably powder coat 7 so I have two spare spares that I can keep with tyres fitted just in case, or if I do a track day or whatever, I have metal discs and long studs to mask the centres for both blasting and coating, one end of the allthread has an eye for hanging,
Well my thoughts initially were that I have little to loose except time and as we are all locked down over here there is a bit of that spare, I am doing a shoestring restoration to make a very nice driver car, I have 22 pre-war motorcycles, half are in use, half waiting for restoration, and 7 cars at the last count, most needing some work or full restoration,
Firstlyā¦I HAVE GOOD REASON TO ADVISE YOU NOT TO RING ALAN FOR A FEW DAYS.
Can you advise what the Salisbury measurement is on your pinionā¦2.625 + 11??
Seems possible you are 0.022 inch adrift
I had hoped you might get a response from some experts, but they seem to be a bit slow to come forward. Perhaps they are still traumatized and canāt bring themselves to talk about it!
3 years ago I discovered that the pinion on my MK 9 axle had some broken teeth although the crown wheel was fine.
I managed to find a Daimler 250 axle which has the same ratio so swapped the C and P. Before I stripped the Daimler axle I looked carefully at the meshing of the C and P and could see that the teeth were bright where they meshed and oil stained brown where the werenāt in mesh. I also made a mental note of the feel of the preload.
The trouble with the factory and Haynes manuals is that they assume you have all the tools, including the pinion height setting gauge which nobody has. Haynes also had a crap proof reader at the time. Their info was basically a reprint of the factory manual, but with various miss prints. (2.25 inches is not 31.75mm for example. Page 169 in the MK2 book!).
If you were just fitting new bearings simply replacing the original shims will give you a good starting point. However as you are replacing the C and P you have the same problem as I had. You are starting from scratch with only some incomprehensible etchings on the pinion, which arenāt much help!.
To set the pinion, I made up a spacer which was exactly 2.625 inches long. I bolted everything up, using the original shims, stood the spacer on top of the pinion, then placed a piece of ground tool steel across the bearing caps and measured the gap with a feeler gauge. I was fortunate because I could see by the old oil staining, that I wasnāt too far out. Nevertheless it still took several attempts before I was satisfied.
Itās important to get the preload set right, note that the figure is given in pound inches, not pounds feet, another thing thatās not really clear in Haynes! I made my own preloadarometer, which consisted of a wheelbarrow wheel, a length of cable, a pulley, some weights and a bent wire coat hanger. Use you imagination on this one, but if worked!
So. My suggestion would be. Take it to bits, check the preload is about 12 pounds inches, (not 12 pounds feet), stick an extra shim in, (15 thou?), To pull the pinion back a bit, bolt it back up, measure the distance, and see what you have. Bloody tedious , believe me I know!
I see you are in the UK. You can borrow my 2.625 inch spacer if you need one.
I found some good info on a Volvo Amazon site. Some of these used the Salisbury axle and the manual wasnāt just a tedious reprint of the original that we all keep seeing.
I found it quite difficult to find any old school mechanics who had experience working on these things. Most guys simply said that they sent them off to a specialist. However some of the old rally boys remembered doing them.
Mine worked fine when I put it all back together, and Iāve gained some serious respect from some of the pros for having a go myself. Keep in touch.
Cheers. Paul, (York, UK).
Did you see my Axle on youtube wardell ?
Yes. I did. Great job. Good those bits came in handy for you. I couldnāt be botherd to advertise the rest, so the scrapman took it.
Well some of it has a second life , hope to try the 3.54 axle out on a long run soon , now we can travel !
ā¦I am SOOOO stealing this!
Think Iāve got a picture somewhere.
But to whet your appetite. Wheelbarrow wheel bolts onto pinion flange with axle on floor. Length of cable is wrapped around the wheel to give a specific diameter. Cable goes round pulley fixed to garage roof and terminated with coat hanger hook, onto which various weights are hung. The weights are increased until the pinion flange turns having first given it a bit of a start to overcome the inertia. 3lbs at a radius of 4 inches is about right.
I think I ended up setting it at 2.636" the pinion has +11 etched on top, 2.625" is the std Sailsbury setting, Dana is different from what I read,
I put a strip of tool steel across the bearing cap face and measured down with a digital Vernier, allowing for the thickness of the strip, I set it to 2.636" to allow for the +11 it had etched on top, looked at a good few youtube vids, read several versions of the Sailbury procedure, have set preload, maybe not 100% accurate but 5 thou less shim and it has no preload at all, and I donāt think it wants to be any stiffer, was going to check the actual value when it is assembled for the last timeā¦ā¦.