Pulled the fuel rail, pretty easy, just busy work getting those 24 nuts off. Pulling the plugs off the injectors took some strength, but none were cracked.
So 30 years (with 5-7 years sitting), i think it’s time to have my injectors cleaned. If this crud was built up around the pintle cap, i’m sure the injector is not much better!
Hoses were original, although not in bad shape. What a bugger to get them off! I only did 4 so far, that’s all the patience I had.
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Greg,
I like to use an old soldering iron to remove the fuel hoses from the barbs on the fuel rail. This eliminates the chance of damage the barbs on rail that could occur if I used a razor blade. Once enough of the hose melted away, the rest of it easily falls off. There may be quicker ways, but this is how I do it
Paul
Thanks, great idea. I’ll try that on the remaining eight.
Greg,
I can’t take credit for the idea to use a soldering iron to remove the fuel hoses from the fuel rail. I am pretty sure I learned it here on Jag-Lovers 15 years ago or more and have used it a bunch of to times on my four EFI Jaguars, three parts cars and a bunch of spare 4.2L Jaguar XK engines.
Of course I don’t use my good soldering iron for melting rubber hoses, but a have an old inexpensive one that does the job nicely.
Paul
Very nice, I tackled this project a couple weeks ago. It was time for an overhaul. Last time was at factory in 1988. I had ordered new pintle caps and seals from one of our forum members @John_John1
Nice! Wow, what color choices. It’s a shame to put it back in the engine bay where it will get dirty. 
Yeah, I also ordered the kit from John_John1. But I will be sending the old injectors plus the kit to Jaguar Fuel Injector Service in Florida for cleaning/assembly. I’ll fit the ferrules and hoses myself.
I was thinking of painting my fuel rail too, right now I’m just polishing it down to bare. It’s aluminum, correct? So no worry about rust. Did you use a basic metal primer and high temp paint? Any clear coat? Or did you have it powder coated?
Also, while I’ve got the fuel rail out, I’m thinking of fitting a schraeder valve for fuel pressure testing. Need to put in 1/4" NPT threads. A bit nervous, as I only get one chance.
I think it is zync plated steel
That really looks nice. Looks like the same type of paint, different colors, that you used on your water pump.
Greg, I recall that the fuel injector service will install the Schroeder value as a option.
I’m not sending my fuel rail, injectors only. Steel? Then I had better paint it.
gregma, Please use the updated ETHANOL SAFE orings, I would change the injectors as well and the rail lines
Its under ALOT of heat go modern fuel injection line where ever possible.
Safety first.
whatever John_John1 sells for orings, that’s what i’m using.
I am using the 5/16" Gates 225psi Barricade fuel injection hoses. Good stuff.
I think I got lucky, my XJS only has 45,000 miles, and has been a Seattle car all it’s life. So I’m not seeing any evidence of heat issues in The Vee. I just took a look at my injection harness, and it tested out OK with my ohm meter, and all the wires, wrappings and connections are in great shape. Even the original injection fuel hoses were still nice and soft.
Very nice Greg. For my fuel rail I opted to powder coat it. Pink. Don’t ask me why. Got to keep the woman happy too right? Who am I kidding that was my Decision.
For the individual fuel lines and fuel regulators,
I primed/painted w High temp paint.
I believe the fuel rail is steel.
For the collars, I powder coated them.
I was 60% engaged in polishing my intake manifolds before I decided to powder coat them. Here is a pic from earlier progress
Were there originally ribs or something on top of those intake manifolds? Did you grind them clean off?
Yeah Kirby, I always wanted to do it. It was a good bit of work to get it down with my limited tools but it came out nice and I think it will clean the look up quite a bit.
Quelle courage !
Super nice …
Am about to have injectors cleaned.
Even though I’ve replaced tank and all fuel hoses in trunk and engine bay, I haven’t touched lines under car.
Call me paranoid, but I’ve decided to put in a WIX 33002 (see thru fuel filter) in the engine bay where the fuel line to the first FPR connects to the fuel line from the tank. That way, I can monitor the gas quality, just in case there is any junk still in the fuel lines. Last thing I want to do is clog up clean injectors.
Any issues with doing this? I assume it can take the fuel pressure?
This filter is meant to be used on carb. equipped engines running at 5-6 psi fuel pressure.You could wind up with a spectacular fire. If you placed this filter AFTER the second FPR, in the return line, you might have a better day.
Thanks for the info. I will not install, I don’t like engine fires :). I won’t bother installing after second fpr, defeats the purpose. I guess I could always install a second fuel filter, like the main one in the trunk. Thanks again!
Do these things have a pressure rating? And a temperature rating might also be pertinent if it is to be installed in the engine compartment.
You could get a metal one. You wouldn’t be able to see crud inside, but it would help keep crud out of your injectors.
The injectors themselves are supposed to have a tiny screen right at the fuel inlet. It’s so small it’s a wonder it doesn’t get clogged immediately. And I dunno how you’d ever clean it, although presumably sending your injectors to a reputable shop for service would do it.
Ok, to insure the fuel line from trunk to engine was clean, I sprayed a bunch of carb cleaner into 5/16 hose connected to fuel filter and blew it through, collecting to a jar at end of fuel line right before FPR.
Glad I did, it came out with a slight yellow tint, and a couple specks of dirt. By the third and fourth try, the carb cleaner came out nice and clear. Now I’m content.
