The one better thing, of EDIS, over the 123, is… no distributor.
But, the 123 is essentially a drop-in operation.
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Paul, are you saying it is an easy conversion to EDIS?
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It’s not dead easy, but for a decent backyard warrior, with reasonable skills, coupled with the support of companies like MegaJolt, trigger-wheels.com, this forum, and instructional videos on YouTube, it’s entirely doable.
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Forgot the 123 ignition/distributor. Very easy to install (curve 6 is most suitable, I find). Have this on 2 cars.
And I agree with Eric on the satisfaction of driving an original car, esp if the Moss is a sweet one. I rev up on down shifting on modern cars as well. Pity about 2nd to 1st, where the car needs to be brought to a halt. I have heard that it can be done while driving, but have not mastereed it.
Cross plies also add to the experience, but radials are nicer and safer, and I happen to like wide white walls, which only come with cross/bias pliy tyres. Have that on 2 XKs.
The Michelin Pilote X gives the car modern handling while looking very period correct. The steering gets very heavy <10 mph. I certainly don´t want electric PS in an XK.
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It can be: orher than bragging rights, it’s pretty pointless.
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True. No wire wheel hubs on a MK IX and the rotors are expensive when you can find them. The MK-IX caliper mounting brackets use larger bolts than what is found on XK uprights.
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I should be OK with the Moss 'box - I get plenty of practice. I use my '67 Series IIA Land Rover as a regular truck, and that has no synchromesh on 1st or 2nd gears, so I am double declutching all day long out of necessity. Great fun and very satsifying when you get it right - although I have to tow a 2CV van on a transporter trailer up to Birmingham for the forthcoming Restoration Show, which will be something of a challenge.
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you can fit very easily MKIX disc brakes to an XK120, 140 or 150 yes with a booster, and yes you can adapt WW hubs to them. The fastest XK in Australia had MKIX disc brakes all round and this car was raced and rallied.
My own XK150 the previous owner had fitted MKIX discs all round as he didn’t like wire wheels from his earlier days with morgans etc but he retain the disc wheels but it is only some simple macing work to match wire wheel hubs to discs.
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thank you, good to know: I have a XK140 project that came with spares (mk9 front end, xk150 rear end) for an eventual disk brake conversion, that was more than 20 year ago plus it’s stashed 5 hours away so my recollection of the validity of the approach became fuzzy over time… A booster was not considered then, at least not initially; possibly a proportionning valve - some road tests will be required in any case.
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Reviving this thread as it pertains to my issue. The xk140 FHC automatic I bought already had the upgrade to xk150 disc brakes on all 4 corners using the original brake pedal and master cylinder. It also had a 150 servo…connected to both front and rear. I was surprised as well. I have to think the back brakes locked up regularly. Finally I am also taking it from auto to manual moss box.
I have purchased a wilwood floor mount clutch pedal - which accepts a single master cylinder, driving the hydraulic clutch upgrade. advertises a 6:1 ratio
I also purchased a wilwood floor mount balancing brake pedal that accepts two master cylinders - front and rear. same 6:1 ratio.
Knowing I was going to have to mess about to get the pressures and performance right, I bought plenty of wilwood master cylinders of 0.625, 0.7 and 0.75 bore. But I’d love to minimise the test, replace, bleed, test cycles if possible.
Any best guesses:
- which master cylinder should I start with for the hydraulic clutch (original format - not lightened)
- which master cylinder for the rears (no servo)
- which master cylinder for the fronts… and should I use the servo?
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I am looking for an XK150 rear hub for solid wheels. I am also looking for a right and left front MK9 hubs for a conversion on my XK120 OTS. I have to keep the brakes in period as the car has vintage racing history.
If someone has XK150 front and rear hubs for solid wheels, I could also use those, but a 150 solid wheel car is a very rare bird.
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Try Coventry Auto Components. You mighty also consider that using mk9 hubs will require expensive rotors (disks).
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XK120-/140/150 all quite nice as made by the factory. Drum brakes work just fine. the Moss box does what it does. Distributor with points, condenser work just fine…easy roadside fix…(OK…maybe a negative ground 12 V battery, and radial tires…I stop there. ) A new Ford Focus or Lexus will provide all the upgrades. Nick
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MK-IX rear hubs are virtually identical to what would be exceptionally rare XK150 rear hubs.
True, if the intent is to run MK-IX calipers, new MK-IX rotors are expensive/hard to find, but If she uses XK150, S1-E brake calipers, a really trashy MK-IX rotor can be turned down to the proper thickness. MK-IX rotors are the same diameter as XK-150, but thicker.
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Are we talking front or rear disc/roters?
A Vauxhall Movano, Nissan Cabstar, Renault Traffic master, or whatever they are called over there can be easily modified to fit on the rear of a MK9 so might be worth a look to see if it would fit your XK. Here in UK they cost only £20.
I have a drawing and details showing the dimensions comparing them with the original Mk9 rear disc if you need them.
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