Dist drive installation

Assembling this 3.8, and I just want to make sure I’m doing it right this time. 20 years ago I installed the distributor drive shaft 180 out and it wasn’t fun to correct. I wish the book would specify which cylinder the rotor is supposed to point to in addition to the diagram. It is #6 (front) correct? With the gears installed, this is the final orientation.

Edit, also should the woodruff key on the crank point directly up at TDC. This one seem to be uppish, like a couple degrees to one side

My 140 engine just shy of TDC…I would pull the drive gear forward on the crank, then rotate the dizzy drive one tooth forward (CCW), then push the crank gear home.
The white marks correspond with the terminal locations on the cap.

Well crap, this leads to another problem. Although the new brass dist drive gear had appropriate end float, once the square drive intermediary was inserted and the new AE oil pump bolted on, and the dist pulled out, I can not turn that gear after levering out the crank gears. t I also can’t move the square drive back and forth.

I have no idea what could be the issue here. The only thing I can guess at is that the new bronze dist shaft bushing is not bored fully concentric?

Hard to diagnose with one photo… but usually it’s something simpler! (not happy hour yet…)

There is some lash between the brass, dizzy gear and bronze crank gear?..I hope…1st thing I would check. There should also be some play for the coupling to float in.

That coupling looks to be angled down towards the oil pump. Somethings not correct there.

Exactly Robin, that’s what it looks like to me in person. I’m going to loosen the pump bolts in a bit and see if there is any adjustment room

The crank oil pump gear gear (which is steel on a 3.8) is actually pulled back to the point of disengagement so I could make the slight rotation that Lee suggested. I can not easily rotate the brass gear at this point and I should be able to.

At least it does rotate since you could move the crank gear forward. As to how tough it is to rotate the dizzy shaft, the only real resistance should be the torque it takes to rotate the oil pump at this point. Do you have end float at the coupler?

As I recall, there is some wiggle room as to where the O/P driven shaft is located with respect to the dizzy shaft centerline.

Okay got it! There is quite a lot of wiggle room in the pump itself on it’s 3 screws. I just had to loosen them and tighten down gradually while continuing to check that the square drive was free to move up/down. Disaster averted :smiley:

2 Likes

Ahh… sweet success.

I remember that we discussed the woodruff key on the XK forum. Click on this for pictures.

I seem to remember my oil pump having dowel type bolts to align the pump. Or am I dreaming?

Hmm, oddly mine do not. Not sure if they’re original or not. They came with the car 20 years ago. In any event, it’s aligned now. The coupler moves freely, and they’re torqued and locked snug.

The manual sez 2 are dowels (120) …on my 140 all 3 were dowels.

Yup mine look like that but black. There is still some wiggle room. Maybe the holes are larger in the AE pump?

OK, after market mistakes on the oil pump?? Or just lazy production standards.

It gets worse. I was all set to prep to button up the pan, and looky, it no fit. WTH? I removed the entire pan baffle to remove one variable. No good. I removed the 3 upper (well lower) pump bolts, still no good. The crappy “Country” 4.2 pump I pulled out fit in this car fine…ish It just left a small mark on the pan baffle from one of the pump bolts. But this NOS AE 4.2 pump won’t fit with at all.

I don’t suppose anyone’s run into this issue fitting a 4.2 pump to a 3.8 car? I tried smearing some grease on the low parts of the pump and they didn’t seem to leave a trace on the pan. I’ve given up for the night. This job took way too long and now it looks like it may need to be done over if I can’t remove the interference.