Dist drive installation

Yes mine did. Dowell bolts to bolt the pump to the front main bearing.

Ok I give. How are the half rounds for the seal different sizes?

Because the seal fits into the slot of the pan, while fitting as a standard seal in the non-slotted timing chest case hole.

Always thought it an odd arrangement.

Boy I don’t remember that at all! Time marches on…

It’s so you can change the front seal without having to fully disassemble the engine. I think the early 3.8s and I would guess the XKs had more meat on the timing cover side of the hole. This way though with the pan dropped and the spacer removed the seal can come out and a new one in easily.

On a couple customer cars, I machined the lip off the front of the pan, so it could be changed w/o dropping the pan at all: worked well.

How often do these seals need replacing?!?

Not terribly a lot, if installed correctly: back in the day, people actually drove these things a lot, and on rare occasion, they needed replacing.

My 140 has a rather large trough in the T/C where the seal sits…and I THINK the pan also has a corresponding deep slot so one part or the other must come out to change seal. I installed the seal into the T/C first during my rebuild.

If Erica were to remove the pump completely. we would know if it was the pump or the seal causing probs…assuming the rear of the pan does touch the block?

The front seal isn’t even in place yet. It has to be the pump. I’ve even fully removed the pan baffle to remove one variable and it still won’t sit flat in front and is teetering on the pump.

I don’t think the 4.2 pump fits the 3.8 sump. I seem to have read something about hammering a lump in it to clear the bottom of the pump.

I think I recall that, too: pounding a doink in the steel baffle isn’t a big deal.

The one I pulled out was a 4.2 though. For as long as I’ve owned the car it has had the larger 7/8" 4.2 pick up pipe. I think 3.8 pumps have been gone for many years now.

It had a little doink in the baffle. The baffle isn’t even installed now and it won’t fit. Maybe it would if I stacked up 3 gaskets.

Saran Wrap all over the pump, cover that with modeling clay: lay pan on and tap with a dead blow.

Measure the thickness of the interference zone and clearance steel baffle appropriately.

The steel baffle isn’t installed. It has to be hitting aluminum

That’s not good…:confounded:

This the same oil pump as before?

Maybe put a piece of paper on top of the oil pump and then replace the pan, you should see a crease or mark where it interferes… Then you know where to doink…
Jon.

Different pump…