Distributor cap and rotor

Don’t think I’ve ever had a two part nipple but I haven’t disturbed that many. I DIYed one pair as an upgrade to a no-nipple E-Type 5.3

How about if one drilled a tinny hole trough (on the radius axis, traversing inner and outer parts) and put a wood nail (brass preferably) or something through ? The head of the nail will jam on the one side, cut and file the excess on the other side and the hose will keep it in place.

Yes, it was a downer when at the year my car was about to pass the magic age of no tests required, CA changed the law to be based on model year. Thus I’m in purgatory forever. Don’t really mind though, because it inspires me to change the plugs, check the coolant temperature connector, etc. And, if it doesn’t pass I know something’s wrong.

That thought has also crossed my mind, but never acted on it. Great minds think alike… or fools never differ :slight_smile:

The good thing is the issue calls attention to the general decline in Jaguar parts quality.

Stuff:

  1. Is the hose and nipple assembly even necessary? Other cars use just a hole if anyt vent effort at all.

  2. My LT1 draws filtered air into the Optilite by vacuum from the engine.

  3. Some dealers are easier to deal with than others. I suppose that includes Jaguar shops.

  4. A bill to update the SMOG cut off date to 81 from 75 failed miserably. IN CA. that is. Our legislators are an odd lot for the most part…

  5. With elections coming up, even odder!!! Began study of my ballot information, whew…

Carl

That might work. PITA, though.

If my memory serves me correctly Lucas sold out to the French company Ducellier

I think I’ll attach vacuum hose BEFORE I put cap back on. That way I can hold the nylon nipples on inside. That makes sense?

Yes. Only problem is if the hose is stiff it could make it a little more difficult to set the cap in place without knocking the gasket out of place.

Brass would certainly be better. Don’t see a big cost increase if using brass. Painful as it is, sometimes you have to admit Lucas did not always skimp on quality.

So I took the two nylon pieces apart, applied a tiny bit of plastic epoxy, and mated them back together. It seems quite strong now, it’s not budging. Success?

What is “plastic epoxy”?

sorry, I just meant epoxy that says it will bond with plastic.

I used JB Weld about a year ago. Holding for now, but I’ve done it a couple times in the past with other caps and it eventually failed.

Yeah, I tried JB Weld too, and it broke loose later. Nothing likes to stick to that waxy plastic. That’s why I’d rather come up with a mechanical attachment.

Thinking about the pin idea, I wouldn’t want to do that to the top vent 'cuz it might invite a conduction path between lugs.
Right or wrong?

A year ago I have bought new ridiculously cheap (~15eur) original LUCAS distributor cap on ebay from this seller: https://www.ebay.com/bhp/accuspark
Original Lucas Type DDB153
It is black, has LUCAS name on it, all contacts are made of brass, plastic fittings are inserted from the bottom but have plastic rings pressed on from the top to hold them in place. Although if you push those fittings hard enough, they will fall out.
One strange thing was that cap came in without the bolts.

IIRC, my original Lucas cap was green. I wonder if the colors represent different caps for Opus and CEI, or perhaps for Opus with magnetic trigger board vs. Hall effect trigger board.

It could be, even though it’s far away from the lugs.
How about a plastic or nylon pin ? Can even melt the ends so it would stay in place.

Might work. There used to be a website called TinyParts.com or the like that might have nylon pins small enough.