Door hinge adjustment hell


#21

Good thinking. But there is no corresponding locating holes on the hinge/body junction. So it is still two unknowns with one equation. Crazy.


(69 FHC ) #22

They wouldn’t need them if they left the hinges on the body and just removed the door from the hinge to do whatever needed to be done.


(Nick Saltarelli) #23

Late to the conversation but a word of caution when it comes to narrowing the gap at the front of the door. Because of the curvature of the door and the A-post this is the single trickiest clearance to get right. As the door is opened its leading edge closes in toward the edge of the A-post. Get the front gap too close - say less than an eighth inch - and you risk fouling the edge and peeling off a strip of paint.


(angelw) #24

Hello John,
But that’s exactly what is done and the reason for the two holes drilled and tapped through the hinges and the door frame. The door is removed from the hinge and the hinge stays with the body.

Regards,

Bill


(John M Holmes) #25

[quote=“vlad11, post:1, topic:370523”]
The hinge-to-body bolts were at full stop against the holes, and could not be moved any further. I resolved that problem by enlarging the holes in the hinge enough to allow extra movement in the right direction.
[/quote I did that and it almost gave me enough relief.However the “cage” holding the plate can be limiting also, and there’s little you can do about that!]


(Geo Hahn 1969 Series 2 OTS) #26

What you describe (removal by detaching hinge from door, not A-pillar) makes sense and would be pretty straight forward on the door you show:

But my door had more metal and the forward screws were almost hidden:

I got it done (by undoing the pillar connection) and it went back fine (had made some witness holes to guide me) but I wonder if I would have been able to do it the other way.