When I bought my 1970 E type FHC I didn’t notice that it came without the door lock keys. However the original owner did write down the key code in the service manual supplied with the car. The key code is FS 877. The usual vendors offer key blanks but is there anyone who has access to the codes so he can cut me a couple of keys?
Stuart
If you are not concerned about having an totally original blank just about any decent locksmith should be able to do that for you. If they don’t have access to what the code means they can make one based on an examination of the door lock itself.
The door lock of my ‘68 takes the same key as the ignition.
Stuart,
If you’re not concerned about having a “Wilmot-Breeden” marked key almost any competent locksmith can cut one from the FS number. BiritshCarKeys is another excellent site.
If you have friends or relatives in the UK search eBay.co.uk - FS877 and you’ll find several OEM examples of different head styles. For some reason the shipping (by sellers) is outrageous. If a relative can purchase and send them via Royal Mail - Small Packet ---- much cheaper/worthwhile. Also tray the USA eBay site.
Do you have a key for the glove box? Also, does your ignition key unlock the door? If the FS877 key doesn’t unlock the door, remove the door handle and on the lock will be stamped with the key number - i.e. 877.
Lastly, if you have a Jaguar/Daimler Heritage Trust production certificate in your name Jaguar USA can provide you with the key numbers as it left the factory. They have that information in the “Build” book.
Good hunting and Good Luck
Jaguar North America Archives - Mahwah, NJ; 201-818-8144
Don’t know who replaced Mike Cook (Archivist) but he was my go-to guy for such info.
Happy Trails,
Dick
I have sent an E mail to BritishCarkeys.com thanks David for the URL.
On my car the ignition keys is completely different to the glove box and door keys. The glove box and door keys use the same blank (FS) but have different numbers
Stuart
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Pete at British Car Keys just made two sets for me a month or two ago from the key codes. They’re perfect.
I have the ignition original key for my car. How every the button on the back of the lock cylinder is damaged (shortened) and no longer hold the barrel in the lock. Also…all the tumblers are missing from the original lock.
I don’t see a way to remove individual tumblers to make the lock work. Unlike a house lock where you just pick the ones out you don’t want. Anyone know?
EDIT: now I see…typo…“numbers” instead of Tumblers. fixing it.
Yes, I replaced my original ignition switch on my 1967 OTS.
Heres the deal. On original cars, there was a single key for the doors and ignition, and a separate key for the boot cable lock.
If your OTS has three keys, one for the boot, one for the doors, and one for the ignition, it means the ignition was replaced at some point.
Note that there is a small slot on the side of the ignition switch that allows for a pin to push back a little spring (maybe the diameter of an eyeglass screwdriver) to allow removal of the lock barrel. This, of course, requires removal of the switch from the dashboard first. I can show pics if anyone cares.
If you have the door key and want to make it also the ignition key, you can remove the key barrel from the ignition (you’ll need its separate proper key to accomplish this), insert your door key, and file down the tumblers, then reinstall. This means your door key is now also the ignition key. Note also that your OTHER ignition key will also still work.
Another option is to simply swap out the replacement key barrel for the original, assuming you still have it.
thanks but my problem is the opposite.
I have the original barrel but some one removed all the tumblers from it…so any key or screwdriver will turn it. And ithe retaining pin is broken or worn to the point it won’t stay in the switch. That is, just tugging the key out causes the barrel to come out of the cylinder.
I have a new barrel with new keys but would like to re key it to the original key which I assume matches the door locks.
.
So are you suggesting I just stick in the original key and file off any tumbler that sticks up from the barrel? Inelegant. I was asking…there must be a way …how to release the tumblers from the lock cylinder so I can just remove the ones that are wrong for the old key. I am guessing any tumbler sticking up when using an improper key is how turning of the key is prevented…in other words “locking”?
TIA
Yes. Not inelegant! Works brilliantly. Better than having to remove the locks from both doors and doing it the other way around.
Now that would be inelegant, IMHO…
See making a key for an impression. If you have a locksmith in your area ask them if they can do it. That’s probably the most elegant solution, IMO.
I have the key, I want a lock cylinder that fits it.
I want to make the brand new lock cylinder than I have work with the original key to the car.
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Sorry for any confusion, Bill. I was addressing the original poster’s issue.
I think it’s very much okay to shove your key into any new lock cylinder and file the tumblers. This concept is no different from what a “master key” is to the doors in an apartment complex.
BTW, look at your vintage Jaguar key and note how ridiculously simple the corresponding notches are for those itty-bitty tumblers. I think if a car thief got this far, he could bust the lock in seconds, but he’d probably bypass the whole thing!
When i got new door locks, i pulled out the ignition cylinder and using the old tumblers made the cylinder match the new key. Three different tumblers to fit the highs and lows of the key. A small touch-up with a file, and it was all good to go
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how did you release the tumblers from the cylinder?
@BillJag, it’s kind of an ingenious thing, likely from hundreds of years of lock evolution.
You probably know this, but you’ll need to disconnect the battery and remove the wires from the ignition switch, and then remove the switch itself from the dash panel.
On the Jag locks (before 1968, anyway) the cylinder is locked within its mating cylindrical hole with a slit that the timbers spring into place within. Without a matching key, there’s no way to turn the mechanism.
When you push the key in, the tumblers fall, and the key will turn the lock past the slit into the “on” position. This effort also locks the key in place.
There is an access hole on the side of the ignition switch. When you turned the lock, it exposes a tiny pin held back with a spring. A precision screwdriver pushed against this pin frees the cylinder, and the key, which is locked in place in the “on” position, can be used to pull out the cylindrical tumbler mechanism from the front.
Remove the key from the cylinder, and the tumblers will pop back up.
Now, slip in your desired other key. Some of the tumblers may fall, others will stick up fully, and still others will be slightly fallen. At this point, you simply file the tumblers down so that each is flush with the body of the cylinder. Remove and replace the key a few times to be sure the tumblers rise and fall evenly.
Reinstall the mechanism by pushing it back into the cylinder hole, and turning the key to the “off” position. The little spring pin will lock the tumbler mechanism back in place.
The result will be a lock where both keys will work.
Thanks, Tom…times 20
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Oh I forgot say, be sure to blow off the detritus as you go, and then use some liquid graphite in the slot to lubricate the mechanism.