I made some from 12x2 timber, wheels are 14" off ground.
Oh yes, that would be ideal (and with a 17" lift range, too) ā¦ the only rub is that I live in an apt. complex and I doubt they (manag./landlord) would let me get away with leaving that getup in the parking lot for my use. 
Disassembled, I couldnāt even begin to fit the parts of it into my tiny outdoor storage room, either. 
I tried that, and again all I could do was blindly āfeelā the two senders with the tips of my fingers. Granted this was after I had already put the new filter on (which Iām never going to do again from above, btw - given how I apparently tore a left arm rotator cuff in the process 
) No way to get a wrench down there and move it around to r/r them. 
I was gonna mention that the parking lot in our complex is 'pebbly" in texture (for want of a better description), so Iām thinking skidding is not going to be an issue if I do get a pair. 
Those look very suitable - the only thing that would make me nervous with them is their (short) length ā¦ One would have to VERY slowly and carefully inch their XJS onto them, I would think. 
Where did you get the replacements at, Gregmatic? Funny you should mention HF, as that is my former tech dudeās fav place for tools ā¦ and in fact I think he got his jack stand set from them. 
(ALMOST wish his had failed - with him under Superblack 
)
Is the height on them really only 11"? 
Reminds me of the āredneckā version using cinder blocks (and yes, my ex tech bud used those to get Superblack off the ground, although he put them under her sides @ the jacking points and not under the wheels themselves - I wonder now if thatās how her rusted area @ a rear radius trailing arm by the jacking point broke loose ? ). I forgot that if you do use those there is one orientation you are always supposed to put them in (horizontal?) b/c they are not able to bear up as much of a load the other way and are dangerous.
HF is great for inexpensive tools that you donāt expect to last forever.
The jack stands i bought were Torin Big Reds.
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HF is perfect for cheap hand tools. Anything powered is more of a gamble, and If pass on anything safety related, like jack stands and jacksā¦even ramps. Savings isnāt worth the risk.
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As has been stressed in other jacking discussions cinder blocks should never be used to support a car in any orientation. They can and will collapse explosively. This is not āI knew a guyā type stuff. I have seen it happen and it is instantaneous when it does. Just donāt do it.
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Wooden 4x4s should also not be used. Even pressure treated 
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That way is probably ok. Notice he has a backup 4x4 !
Comment made in jest to be clear.
Cinder blocks not the best. Concrete better.
Not horizontal. Vertical . Openings up . As installed in abuilding. there is a reason for that. More material in compression.
Big chunks of wood are betterā¦ I have a selection of big and little boards. Cribbing is good.
Hi Carl. I have to disagree with you on that. Although probably not technically correct I was referring to concrete when I referenced cinder blocks. They should not be used in any orientation. While they are much stronger in the standard building position you really have no clue from the outside as to what condition the block is in. They tend to get thrown around a lot over the years and can develop fractures that are unseen. Just not worth the risk. I agree completely with you on wooden blocks. Even when using jack stands I always put in a backup with heavy blocking.
We do agree. Neither is good. cinder or concrete.
When used in buildings, grout adds a huge amount of strength.
For me. Wood. jack stand, ramp. And the jack remains in place when up on wood or jack standsā¦ No cinder concrete or baked clay blocks around hereā¦
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Carl may have been referencing solid concrete blocks, which are safe to use.
That just makes my back feel sore!
Well, at least he also has the wheel chockedā¦safety conscious dude.
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Is it me, or does it look like he is welding the fuel tank?