I need to remove the driver’s seat on my '69 OTS for upholstery work. How do I go about it? I can access the rear phillips screws that hold down the runners, but how do I get to the front fasteners? I would assume they’re also phillips screws, but I can’t even see them, much less access them.
Thanks for any and all suggestions.
Ricardo
Good morning Ricardo,
You should be able to pull the tracks back and out once the rear pozidriv screws are removed. The seat isn’t screwed in at the front but rather slips into a ‘grooved post’.
Cheers,
LLynn
Thank you L.Lynn.
Sounds easy and logical. I’ll spray some WD-40 underside to loosen and clean the threads of the two screws and then have a go at it in a day or two.
Ricardo
Once the rear can be lifted up a couple inches, slide the seat toward the back and “unlatch” it. It will lift right out. Then you can see how to slide it back in.
LLoyd
Wherever space and time interact, there is information, and wherever information can be ordered into knowledge, and knowledge can be applied, there is intelligence.
Pavel Mirsky, mid 21st Century Russian General
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Actually they are Pozidriv screws:
What Is Pozidriv? How Does It Differ From A Phillips Drive?
You can sort of get them with a Phillips if they are not too tight or otherwise reluctant to turn but to be sure you don’t cam-out and strip the heads a Pozidriv is best.
An inexpensive source for Pozidriv bits is this kit from Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/100-pc-security-bit-set-with-case-68457.html
That set includes the big one you need for the seats.
Thank you also Geo. While the threads soak I’ll run over to HF and buy myself the set. Glad to know the exact type of fastener and the tool required.
Ricardo
Ricardo
Two easy options,
- Use one of those gas torches that chef’s use on pastries if you have one. They have a pencil like flame which will allow you to get a little heat on the screws. Play the heat on them for about a minute each and then a small drop of penetrating fluid on top to cool it quickly. This usually does the trick, in fact this method is used by most tech’s to unseize rusted or tough to turn bolts. Obviously with larger bolts you may need a hand held gas torch to generate enough heat on larger sizes.
- Use a flat head punch or if you haven’t got one an extension bar from a socket set, with a hammer directly on the head of the screw and give it a real good blow. This again will often break the seal between the threads. However don’t do it too often or you could end up damaging the hole where the screwdriver goes.
- If you do buy a set as has been suggested, try and use an extension bar which will take a tommy bar at the top, this will enable you to get some good even pressure downward on the screw head, because as has also been said you need to make sure you don’t strip out the head of the screw.
Tony
Yes , plus Kroil is your friend !
Kroil or a torch… but not both, please.
The HF set has an adapter that allows the bit to be driven by your ¼" ratchet which permits lots of downward force while turning.
Isn’t there a hardura floor mat under the seat rails that is located in place by these screws that pass through it? I don’t think I’d be applying heat in an area with potentially combustible interior material in the vicinity…
-David
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Davidxk
You make a valid observation, but obviously an owner needs to exercise and follow the usual care and safety rules when working.
Tony
I replaced these screws with S.S. automotive thread bolts.
The heads are small enough to fit in the rails & a socket will
fit over the head within the rail-to tighten them. Heads do not hit the rails above them, either.
Maybe you can run a tap through the threads in the floor, if they’re not clean. Bit of “never seize” on the new bolts before inserting.
Good suggestions all, so thank you. As it turns out I solved my issue without having to remove the seat! The culprit was the headrest stanchion that inserts vertically into the seat back. I could always feel a lump in the upper middle of my back when sitting and leaning back. By pulling up the headrest a couple of inches, instead of letting it rest against the top of the seat, the culprit lump disappeared. Therefore I assume that the end of the vertical stanchion came close to the front of the seat back and when my back pushed against it, its tip could be felt. Problem solved by a black foam spacer (foam motorcycle grip cut to size) that functions as a collar/spacer to keep the headrest from bottoming out.