Driveshaft Unis and Centre Bearing

I need to remove the driveshaft from my 420G, which has the same Unis as the S1-S2 XJ

OEM Uni Part is shown as SKF UJ369

I have observed that the following Uni has the same dimension Dana Spicer DANA 51310X

Cap diameter 1.062" Length 3.219"

The Dana Part is used in many 4wd Jeeps, which have 5 of them in the front and rear driveshafts

Can anyone comment on whether they have used either of these these parts…and did you choose greasable or non-greasable ?

I am not going to use cheaper aftermarket replacement parts, that are about half the cost

Is anyone able to identify the Centre Bearing Part Number. I would prefer not to have to order it from a supplier of Jag Parts, but from the local Bearing suppliers

@Aristides I think you did this job recently ?

Hi Tony,

Yes, i did that recently ingeed.
The u-joints came from SNG Barrat and they were the greasable kind.
As far as I know they are GM /Spicer. Kirbert’s book has the equivalent part numbers.
As for the central bearing I don’t think that you can find a generic replacement as the bearing is permanently fixed to the rubber.


Hi Tony, I took my XJ6 tailshaft to Hardy Spicer for the centre bearing and balance. It was about $150, from memory. I provided the rubber ring mounting (SNG) and did my own uni joints (good brand Nitto or NTN greasable from Supercheap - same as an Aussie Ford). HS also check spline is in spec - mine was. Good job all round.

Here are two links to some work I did last year. Note that this was for a XJ6 Series 3 so I don’t know how similar it is to a 420G.

As Aristides comments, the centre bearing race may be a standard industrial part but it is moulded into the rubber support so is not replaceable on it’s own. As you’ll see I destroyed the old bearing support in the process of pulling it off the drive shaft.

Apologies in advance if the 420G is so different that all this is no help.



1 Like

Thanks for that excellent presentation.

I am pretty sure the 420G is the same.

My reason for doing this is the worst stuff up of my entire mechanical career…failure to properly tighten the trans to propshaft bolts following an engine change…which eventually came free, one at a time…but the last one held on, and ended up slightly distorting the front flange of the propshaft…so I am swapping it out from a wreck that I have…very nasty sound, luckily at low speed (take off from traffic lights)

I do hate doing uni-joints too, the last lot I did had slightly thicker circlips. The Spicer technician advised this was not uncommon, and I had no alternative but to bevel the new clips

Had the exact same problem, and they needed a lot of “persuasion” to go in…

1 Like

I would have used the old clips if I had of known, but think I may have lost a couple, when they sprung out, as I wasnt thinking I needed to retain them.

For the last one I did, I cut a small section of pipe, and ground it to about .001" interference fit in the yoke, and used a vice to get the old one out…the 1/8 pipe section prevents the yoke ears compressing

I replaced mine with Toyo (made in Japan) K5-13XR greasable from Supercheap for $27 each

The driveshaft specialist told me he sets up with zero endfloat,
didnt measure mine but they wont quite flop down of their own accord, feel just right to me